Wall Tie Replacements
Here are the companies and businesses listed under the Wall Tie Replacements category.
Click a location on the left to narrow your search and find a supplier near you!
Let others know whether you recommend any of these companies by leaving feedback on their company pages.
POULTON REMEDIAL SERVICES LTD
Poulton Remedial Services Ltd. are specialists in Structural Masonry Repairs using the Helifix System, Cavity Wall Tie Replacement, Woodworm Treatm...
www.structural-repairs.comTHOR HELICAL REMEDIAL
Wall ties masonry repair crack stictching for cracked walls and structural repairs ... http://thorremedial.com/ Page updated 7th Dec 2010, 09:39. Y...
www.thorremedial.comLocal Wall Tie Replacements
Ask the community
Need help finding a company or supplier?
Wall Tie Failure - How much would that cost to rectify?
We are in the process of buying a 3 bed, mid terrace (ex council) property. It was built around 1940. There are no cracks or signs of wall tie failure in the property, but as a couple of houses down the street are showing signs, we've been recommended by a surveyor to investigate this. Has anybody had similar experience in the UK? If so, how much (roughly) would it cost to get a firm out to investigate and how much (roughly) would it cost to get it fixed if there were problems (worst case scenario)?
The Gold Medal
Question answered by Ansch
Wall tie replacement is a very easy process and is carried out from the external brick skin and doesn't (rarely) damage the inside face. If there are other properties suffering the same condition and have had the work carried out, suggest you ask at those particular properties as to how much it cost. If the houses are of a similar age then it is more than likely that the wall ties will require attention in your property at some stage. You can ask the council for approved contractors who will be able to help further. If you haven't brought the house yet, the repairs could become a condition of the mortgage?what is the most effective way of elliminating house mold?
Need to know the cheapest and most effective way of remediating mold in the basement.
mrdotz
Question answered by Elwood Blues
Mold is the symptom, water is the problem. All of your efforts will be to no avail unless you find the water source and completely dry it up. One of the most common sources of basement water is exterior moisture bleeding through the wall. This may require extensive work to properly drain the water away from the basement and waterproof the walls. Here is the best waterproofing material I have used: www.sanitred.com Another possibility is high relative humidity from inadequate air conditioning and air movement. (Be sure to inspect your a/c suystem for mold contamination). The walls must be dry when tested with a moisture meter (about $100.00 http://www.emssales.net/default.aspx ), and the relative humidity in the range of 50% to prevent the future occurance of mold. The existing mold may require the complete removal of the contaminated surfaces, depending on the extent of the growth. Never assume that the mold is merely surface growth. Always investigate back to raw concrete to rule out contamination.If it is minor, spraying with a good "quat" formula available at a/c supply houses should be reasonably effective. Trane has a product called Oxine that works well. Clorox, although I see it often mentioned as the ultimate mold remedy, is not truly effective. Any wet material that you encounter should be thoroughly dried with fans or blowers immediately. Isolate the work area from the rest of the home with a visqueen barrier, and create a low-pressure area by running a Shop-Vac and extending a hose from the exhaust port to an exterior opening. This will help keep mold spores from contaminating the other living spaces. You can creat a "poor-man's h.e.p.a. vac" by running a Shop-Vac with no hoses, wet down the new cartridge filter and keep it moist, and put about 3" of water in the bottom of the tub with some Oxine. This will remove and trap mold spores and dust particles.( It will also introduce a bit of moisture to the environment). Your work space should feature dehumidifiers and blowers steadily working to completely dry the basement. Make sure that any vaccuuming is done with the exhaust port vented and discharged to an exterior opening to prevent recontamination by airborn mold spores. Wear a Tyvek overall suit with booties and a respirator that has cartriges designed for mold, and bag and tie moldy material as you go. Be careful of "cross-contamination" where the mold spores are drug into other areas of the home as material is transported through. Make sure you bathe thoroughly during this process to avoid transdermal absorption of fungi. When in doubt, throw it out! It is very difficult to completely remove mold from porous material like carpet and cloth, and replacement may prove less expensive in the long run. After your clean-up have the air tested by a qualified environmental company to make sure your mold spore count has been reduced to a healthy level. Ordinarily, this project would be best left in the hands of a Certified Mold Remediator, but it seems from your question that you will be doing your own work. If you are careful, and detailed in your clean-up, you can experience good results. Good luck!Indesit washing machine - handle has broken off, please help me?
I was taking my clothes out, and I managed to snap the handle off. And now I can't get the door open. And my clothes are still in there. I have tried with a screw driver, hammer and string. I cannot manage to pull it out of the wall either. The model is an indesit w101
Maria
Question answered by Selena
There are some ideas to open the your washing machine door: 1. Switch power off. Some interlocks prevent the door from opening if the drum is moving. The mechanism that detects this is called a pecker unit and it is located around the motor pulley. It connects to the interlock via a cable assembly. If the pecker unit is broken in the "on" position it may be preventing the interlock opening. Visually check and try to activate the mechanism by hand. Other interlocks have a secondary locking system which ties in with the pressure switch - the mechanism which detects if there is water present in the drum. If this system is faulty - caused by blockages in the filter, pressure vessel or the thin rubber pipe running to the pressure switch the machine "thinks" its still full of water and wont allow the door to be opened. Take off the top cover, examine the interlock from behind and detach any rubber pipes or cables to try to open it from inside. If all else fails, the interlock itself may be faulty and will have to be broken open. A replacement interlock unit and/or catch will of course be required. 2. First is get a piece of string and feed it into the door resses at the top. Then feed 1 end round the door and around the handle. Do this till both ends are opposite the door handle. Then pull the string and at the same time pull on the door. Hopefully this will open the door. 3. If not then you need to pull the washer out and take the top off. From there look down the front of the washer on the right you will see the door lock. Reach down and there will be a metal door pin poking through the lock. Push the metal pin to the left and at the same time pull on the door. This will open the door so you can get at the handle from there. These are the way to open washing machine door if the handle is broken. Call customer care executive for helpWhat color is a common wire ?
I am replacing old 3 button (vertically aligned) light switch. There is 1 thick wire wrapped in white, 1 thick wire wrapped in black and 4 thin wires wrapped in black. I attached the white wire to the common wire screw and put the remaining wires around the screws. I am also replacing a toggle switch that will control the vanity lights above the sink. There are 4 clumps of wire coming through the box. The copper grounds are all twisted together, and there are multiple strands of white covered wire twisted together and then the 5 black cover wires and 1 white covered wires. After hooking it all up, it doesn't do anything. No lights, fan or heat lamp. What did I do wrong?
Question answered by JeffeVerde
Warning! Warning! Danger Will Robinson! Step away from the switch box! But seriously -- electricity is not something to just guess at. There's a very real chance of electrocuting someone or buring your house down -- then, to add to your woes, when the insurance inspector finds that it was caused by a bad, non-inspected wiring job, they'll cancel your policy and refuse to pay on the claim. Now, as to your problem -- luckily you did it wrong in such a way that nothing was hot - so no sparks, fire or death. Picture your triple-switch as a capital "E" The spine of the E is the common, and supplies power to the arms, which are the three seperate switches tapping off the common hot and feeding power to whatever they're supplying. The big black wire is probable your hot source, but you'll need a volt meter to confirm. Connect the hot source wire (the one that's hot when the breaker is on) to the common, and the individual black wires to the other side of the three switches. The whites (neutrals) are all connected together, as are all of the grounds (whites together and grounds together -- not whites AND grounds together). You lost me on the second circuit - you first describe it as supplying a vanity light - but then you mention lights, fan and heatlamp -- was that in reference to the triple switch, or...? Please clarify, but I'll answer - basing my answer on the assumption that this switch is ONLY controlling the vanity light, and the "No lights, fan or heat lamp" was refering to the triple switch in the first half of your question. A single-switch light circuit can be wired in one of two ways -- either power comes into the switch box, and there will be a white and a black going to the light -OR- power will come into the light, and two wires will lead to the switch - these two wires should both be black or some other non-white color, but sometimes a white/black pair is used and the white is marked to indicate that it's really a "black", by either wrapping it in electrical tape or coloring it with permanent marker - unfortunately, some shody workmen ignore the requirement to color the white whire when it's used in a switch loop. Before I start - all of this is predicated on the assumption that you ONLY disconnected the two wires from the original switch and you now have ONLY TWO loose wires. If this is not the case, then all bets are off and you should call an electrician, because there's not easy way to determine which wire is supposed to go where, and there's that whole fire/death thing we talked about earlier. Because you've got a bunch of black wires coming into this box, my guess is that this is the hot source for this light circuit. If that's the case, then you should have a loose wire that ties into the bundle of black wires, and a second loose black wire that dissapears into the wall. If this is what you have, then the two black wires go on the switch and you're done. If you don't have a black stub coming from the black bundle, then you should have two loose wires (probably both non-white, but could be black and white) dissapearing into the wall. This would be a switch loop. Connect the two loose wires to the switch, and you're done. If this was the case, and the light now works -- if one of the switch wires is white, take a magic marker and color it black before you bundle everything back up. Now the lesson to learn from all of this for future projects is to NEVER disconnect any existing wiring until your ready to connect the replacement part. If you absolutely have to remove the existing part first to identify a replacement, then label each wire you disconnect with tape and a marker, and make a detailed diagram of what each wire was connected to.How can i make my room more teenish?
I feel like my bedroom is super little girlish! i am not allowed to change my bed spread because it is brand new. i dearly love ballet and would like to incorperate it in there somehow.....HELP
Mooskie (:
Question answered by ❤Makeup Junkie❤
Well what I would do is clean your room out COMPLETLY furiture and EVERYTHING! Then rearrange your room around a little if you have a window, then I would put your bed in front of it. Then your vanity area on one side and your desk on another ( if you dont have enough room then put your desk and put it across from your room ) Then your nightstand on the other side of your bed with a nice floor lamp. Then your entertainment/ tv center across from your bed. Then for all your music stuff put it on the other side of your tv center ( the other side has your desk on it ) FOR YOUR WINDOWS: You can put some nice decals on your windows ( like for spring ) just a few though! Then if you have blinds keep them open during the day to let some nice natural light in If you have color ful curtins, then you could put a few hair ties around them to make it look teenish/nice. FOR YOUR BED: If you have drad bedding then look on clearence everytime you go shopping and save up ( Head boards make room look sophisticated ) Keep the beeding colorful with the theme/ colors in your room. Max of 5 pillows. FOR YOUR DESK: Keep it simple and uncluttered You should have: - Lamp - Cup with sissors pens and pencils - Imporant books/ papers - Laptop ( if you have one ) - Glasses - Pencil sharpener - And a little bin or container with all your cords and chargers And keep everything else in your drawers of your desk CLOSET: Keep your clothes in rainbow order to keep it easy and simple Storage bins for all your stuff make it look much more sophiscitcated TV CENTER: You could also keep your cords there as well - TV - DVD - VCR - Movies and DVDS can go there as well VANITY AREA: Well, you might not have enough makeup for this, but here it is: http://static.www.odcdn.com/pictures/us/… You can get that at office depot Go to the dollar store and buy some silver mesh cups to put your brushes, mascaras, eyeliners, jumboe eyeshadow pencils, etc........ in Buy a silver serving tray like this: http://www.herriotts.com/images/beverage… And put all your glass/ fancy perfumes on it Or one of these to put your daily used things/ favorite things : http://images.replacements.com/images/im… You can buy one of these for you eyeshadow singles or potted/ containered lip products : https://www.totalofficesupplies.co.uk/ca… http://p.office1000.com/mrp/22231ROG.jpg You can use one of those for your bigger pallettes if your vanity has drawer then buy dividers to help you. Hope I Helped! - Emily PS : Look up on youtube Makeup Collection and storage Trust me it will give you TONS of ideas! Keeps your walls simple I would put some your your FAV things on it Coat racks that you mount on the wall are great too! Hope I Helped! ~ Emily Search Room Tours on YouTube, TRUST ME! YOU WILL GET IDEAS! ( Thats why I rearrange my room practly everday cause of YouTube LOL I have YouTube Sydrom :(Light switch replacement issue?
I recently ha a light switch short out, and the entire back side melted away. It is a 2 switch wall plate that controls the front porch light (only switch for this) and front hall light (two switches away from each other). The porch light switch is the one that melted and I am unable to determine the switch type. I purchased 2 3-way switches as the only identifiable switch was a 3-way. Without being able to determine the original wiring for the porch switch, I used electrical guesswork. Everything works with the switches properly, but when I turn on the porch light I lose power to the study attached to the same breaker. I attempted to change the wiring around on the hall switch, but got the same result. Keep in mind I can only tell the color of the wires on the hall switch due to the covers melting off the porch switch wiring. I currently have power in the proper places (top connection on the switches). There was a wire going from the hall switch, attached to the porch switch, and back to the house; I assumed this was the ground. By best guess, I aced this wire in the lower right location (looking at the switch from the front) and placed the remaining wire on the lower left. I'm thinking that I may need a regular switch instead of a 3-way, or that the other wire attaches with the ground wires from the other switch. Thanks for any help.
Cj
Question answered by Tony
A three way switch is not the way to go. You should have some black wires in the box and some white wires in the box. One of those black wires brings power into the box and the other two go out to the lights. Each switch should have power going to one of the two screws (doesn't matter - except NOT the screw attached to the metal frame of the switch - that's for ground). The other screw gets the black wire that goes to the light(s). Since you mention the study looses power, I'd have to guess that the same circuit also provides power to the study via the switch box. That means an additional black wire that goes to the study. One black wire comes in (power) and is wire nutted to the power to the study. There's probably two other black wires nutted under the same wire nut that provide power through the switches to the lights. ALL the white wires SHOULD be tied together as well should be all the copper ground wires (ground wires nutted together only) (white wires nutted together only). Don't mix wire colors under the same nut. WORD OF WARNING: Some circuits are called "Interrupt" circuits because they don't strictly follow the color codes I've given you. So you need to identify exactly what's going on or you could have a bigger mess and more melted stuff, including windows, roof, anything you left in the garage, the front door, the back door, all your furniture, YOUR EYEBROWS. In short, doing it wrong can be disastorous. Unless you know or know someone who knows WHAT you're doing, I'd recommend getting actual help. Help over the internet can not tell exactly how your circuits are wired. Anything we tell you COULD be wrong and COULD result in a fire or other damage. Hope this helps. 'av'a g'day mate. '')Top of wheel points out- what might cause that?
I slid into a wall in my '07 Maxima (I know, I know), and now the front left tire points out at the top by about 3/4". The dealer has replaced the bent strut and rim, but it's not fixed. They are changing the spindle and repacking the bearings tomorrow, but is this correct? The wall did jut out at the bottom, so the bottom portion of the tire took all of the impact. They are suggesting the tie rods next and then the upper and lower arms, but none of these looked damaged. Anybody out there know car anatomy that could perhaps tell me the part(s) most likely to be damaged by this type of impact? There is no vibration in the steering wheel (even before the repairs), so the guy said this rules out the lower arm (I think). There has to be a way to narrow it down without the process of replacement-and-elimination...... Any ideas are greatly appreciated. BTW, I know it was a very stupid thing to do, so please only comment on possible solutions. Thank you. There is only a minor srape on the under side of the bumper, so I doubt there is any frame damage. I was actually extremely lucky, cosmetically. Mechanically is another story... I saw it on the alignment rack and it was visibly pointed outward. All other wheels were fine. They pointed to the top number and emphasized the fact that it was +3.21, whatever that means.
DeVi
Question answered by Sundew
was there any difference after the strut was changed? if the strut was bent there should have been some change. after the strut I would check the lower control arm arm and sub frame where the lower arm mounts. the spindle would be the 3rd area I would look. the last place I would look would be tie rod ends as these have very little if any effect on top to bottom angle of tire ( known as camber). tie rod ends mostly effects the front to back angle (known as toe-in toe-out) of the tire. this car does not have and upper arm, the strut is in place of an upper arm. The dimensions of the front end can be measured, and compared against specifications. It appears to me that is not being done. and the replacement order suggests less than adequate knowledge of the problem. you might want to get a second opinion. BTW: They pointed to the top number and emphasized the fact that it was +3.21, whatever that means means 3.21 degrees off center should be about 0.0how should i redecorate my room?
im a teen girl who really needs to give her room a makeover. any ideas?
Sarah T
Question answered by ❤Makeup Junkie❤
For paint i would to do turquisey blue color with a white stripe in the middle Well what I would do is clean your room out COMPLETLY furiture and EVERYTHING! Then rearrange your room around a little if you have a window, then I would put your bed in front of it. Then your vanity area on one side and your desk on another ( if you dont have enough room then put your desk and put it across from your room ) Then your nightstand on the other side of your bed with a nice floor lamp. Then your entertainment/ tv center across from your bed. Then for all your music stuff put it on the other side of your tv center ( the other side has your desk on it ) FOR YOUR WINDOWS: You can put some nice decals on your windows ( like for spring ) just a few though! Then if you have blinds keep them open during the day to let some nice natural light in If you have color ful curtins, then you could put a few hair ties around them to make it look teenish/nice. FOR YOUR BED: If you have drad bedding then look on clearence everytime you go shopping and save up ( Head boards make room look sophisticated ) Keep the beeding colorful with the theme/ colors in your room. Max of 5 pillows. FOR YOUR DESK: Keep it simple and uncluttered You should have: - Lamp - Cup with sissors pens and pencils - Imporant books/ papers - Laptop ( if you have one ) - Glasses - Pencil sharpener - And a little bin or container with all your cords and chargers And keep everything else in your drawers of your desk CLOSET: Keep your clothes in rainbow order to keep it easy and simple Storage bins for all your stuff make it look much more sophiscitcated TV CENTER: You could also keep your cords there as well - TV - DVD - VCR - Movies and DVDS can go there as well VANITY AREA: Well, you might not have enough makeup for this, but here it is: http://static.www.odcdn.com/pictures/us/… You can get that at office depot Go to the dollar store and buy some silver mesh cups to put your brushes, mascaras, eyeliners, jumboe eyeshadow pencils, etc........ in Buy a silver serving tray like this: http://www.herriotts.com/images/beverage… And put all your glass/ fancy perfumes on it Or one of these to put your daily used things/ favorite things : http://images.replacements.com/images/im… You can buy one of these for you eyeshadow singles or potted/ containered lip products : https://www.totalofficesupplies.co.uk/ca… http://p.office1000.com/mrp/22231ROG.jpg You can use one of those for your bigger pallettes if your vanity has drawer then buy dividers to help you. Hope I Helped! - Emily PS : Look up on youtube Makeup Collection and storage Trust me it will give you TONS of ideas! Keeps your walls simple I would put some your your FAV things on it Coat racks that you mount on the wall are great too! Hope I Helped! ~ Emily Search Room Tours on YouTube, TRUST ME! YOU WILL GET IDEAS! ( Thats why I rearrange my room practly everday cause of YouTube LOL I have YouTube Sydrom :(Where can I find a replacement for a broken cast iron radiator tie rod?
Three years ago I made the sorry mistake of buying an older fixer-upper. What's worse is the radiators were leaking. I drained the radiators in order to move them out from the walls while doing some construction. When I reconnected them and began to fill them, I found that two of the radiators had cracked. In fact, one had a 1 1/2" x 3 inch piece break off of it. Luckily I knew someone who could weld and he "brazed" it. (I'm not sure if that is the correct term or technique he used.) As we were reassembling the heaters, one or the tie rods snapped. A third of an inch tip broke off leaving the rod too short to be used. My question is, where can I purchase a new or replacement rod? I've searched online for hours and have not been able to find anyone who sell this type of rod. I've also read that all-thread may not be strong enough to hold it. I would appreciate any advice you could offer me.
Eros
Question answered by me
What you need to do is go to a real plumbing supply shop..preferably one that's been around a bit. Explain it to them and they will be able to fix you up. You are over worrying this issue pipe is pipe and a plumber can thread. Cast Iron heaters are wonderful and many people still leave them standing to this day. Their ability to retain and disperse heat evenly is incomparable. Anyway here is a list of manufacturers http://www.thomasnet.com/products/cast-iron-bars-rods-11236254-1.htmlWhere can I find a replacement for a broken cast iron radiator tie rod?
Three years ago I made the sorry mistake of buying an older fixer-upper. What's worse is the radiators were leaking. I drained the radiators in order to move them out from the walls while doing some construction. When I reconnected them and began to fill them, I found that two of the radiators had cracked. In fact, one had a 1 1/2" x 3 inch piece break off of it. Luckily I knew someone who could weld and he "brazed" it. (I'm not sure if that is the correct term or technique he used.) As we were reassembling the heaters, one or the tie rods snapped. A third of an inch tip broke off leaving the rod too short to be used. My question is, where can I purchase a new or replacement rod? I've searched online for hours and have not been able to find anyone who sell this type of rod. I've also read that all-thread may not be strong enough to hold it. I would appreciate any advice you could offer me.
Eros
Question answered by Sophie B
go to a machine shop, and have them thread you a new one....
Businesses local to you in these sectors: