Can I use a sewage pump in place of a standard sump pump?
I currently have 2 standard AC power sump pumps and a battery backup sump pump installed in 2 sump pits. During hurricane Sandy, all 3 pumps were running and my basement still got about 1-2" of water in it. The AC pumps are your standard sump pumps that pump approximately 3,000 GPH of water. What I was thinking of doing is to replace one of the pumps with a sewage pump (found one at Tractor Supply) that will pump 7500 GPH at 10' of head lift. I will need to replace the PVC drain line with a larger 2" pipe to accommodate the bigger pump, but other than that is there any issue I should be aware of? I am just looking to have the capacity to pump more GPH of water out to hopefully prevent any future flooding. A sewage pump is the most cost effective solution I have come up with for this problem.
Here is the pump I found. http://www.tractorsupply.com/countyline-reg-3-4-hp-cast-iron-sewage-pump-with-tethered-switch-1028138
Question answered by KILOWATT
Pump performance drops off sharply with increases in the Total Dynamic Head. TDH is the sum of the static head (height of discharge) and the dynamic head (resistance of pipe and fittings). Only small pumps are measured in GPH instead of GPM. 125 GPM (7500 GPH) is not a small pump.
Their instructions call for a 18" dia. basin 30" deep. I would not go less than 24"x36" for a basin on that size pump. If the basin is too small, the pump will short cycle, and even with internal temperature protection, it could burn out in a few days of short cycling. Be sure to put some holes into the bottom of the basin even if you are filling it from a drainage pipe from the side, as water pressure from the ground will float the basin up out of the hole. The weight of the pump is not enough to hold it down, in most cases.
Be sure to drill a 3/16" hole in the pipe between the pump and check valve, preferably just above the pump discharge outlet, to prevent an airlock from damaging the shaft seal.
It also needs a dedicated 15 amp circuit, with nothing else plugged into it.
Personally, I would go with a Zoeller model 292, for that application, but the price would be much higher for a pump of Zoeller quality. They also have excellent technical support.
how to use the mig fuction on my harbor freight 110 Amp Flux Wire Welder?
hi i just bought a fluxcore/mig welder from harbor freight and dont know a thing about welding. would like to know if i need the acedalin gas tank or the argon gas tank what kind of spool of wire do i need if using as a mig and on what else i might need to get the mig fuctionality to work. thanks for any help or advise
Question answered by Anthony
Mike you can use the machine as is with the flux core wire (no gas).
It won't produce a pretty weld but you can stick things together. If you want to use gas you need a mix gas of argon/Co2 (75/25 works best). Acetylene is for oxy-acetylene welding or plumbers us it to sweat pipes and fittings together. I would suggest you get a book on welding. Also you can go to youtube and search for mig welding they have many clips on there that can help. Try Miller's site also there are many sites that offer welding help. Good luck!
A question about volts and amps?
Can somebody please explain to me (in detail) what volts and amps are, and how they are controlled?
Question answered by Saima
The volt (symbol: V) is the SI derived unit of electromotive force, commonly called "voltage". It is also the unit for the related but slightly different quantity electric potential difference (also called "electrostatic potential difference"). It is named in honor of the Italian physicist Alessandro Volta (1745–1827), who invented the voltaic pile, possibly the first chemical battery
The volt is defined as the value of the voltage across a conductor when a current of one ampere dissipates one watt of power in the conductor. It can be written in terms of SI base units as: m2 · kg · s−3 · A−1. It is also equal to one joule of energy per coulomb of charge, J/C
The ampere (symbol: A) is the SI unit of electric current. The ampere, in practice often shortened to amp, is an SI base unit, and is named after André-Marie Ampère, one of the main discoverers of electromagnetism.
In practical terms, the ampere is a measure of the amount of electric charge passing a point per unit time. Around 6.242 × 1018 electrons passing a given point each second constitutes one ampere. (Since electrons have negative charge, they flow in the opposite direction to the conventional current.)
Qualitatively, the ampere "is now defined in terms of a current that, if maintained in two straight parallel conductors of specific sizes and positions, would produce a certain amount of [magnetic] force between the conductors."Quantitatively, the ampere is defined to be the constant current which will produce an attractive force of 2 × 10^7 newtons per metre of length between two straight, parallel conductors of infinite length and negligible circular cross section placed one metre apart in a vacuum. The definition is based on Ampère's force law.The ampere is a base unit, along with the metre, kelvin, second, mole, candela and the kilogram: it is defined without reference to the quantity of electric charge.
The three most basic units in electricity are voltage (V), current (I, uppercase "i") and resistance (r). Voltage is measured in volts, current is measured in amps and resistance is measured in ohms.
A neat analogy to help understand these terms is a system of plumbing pipes. The voltage is equivalent to the water pressure, the current is equivalent to the flow rate, and the resistance is like the pipe size.
There is a basic equation in electrical engineering that states how the three terms relate. It says that the current is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance.
I = V/r
Let's see how this relation applies to the plumbing system. Let's say you have a tank of pressurized water connected to a hose that you are using to water the garden.
What happens if you increase the pressure in the tank? You probably can guess that this makes more water come out of the hose. The same is true of an electrical system: Increasing the voltage will make more current flow.Let's say you increase the diameter of the hose and all of the fittings to the tank. You probably guessed that this also makes more water come out of the hose. This is like decreasing the resistance in an electrical system, which increases the current flow.
Electrical power is measured in watts. In an electrical system power (P) is equal to the voltage multiplied by the current.
P = VI
The water analogy still applies. Take a hose and point it at a waterwheel like the ones that were used to turn grinding stones in watermills. You can increase the power generated by the waterwheel in two ways. If you increase the pressure of the water coming out of the hose, it hits the waterwheel with a lot more force and the wheel turns faster, generating more power. If you increase the flow rate, the waterwheel turns faster because of the weight of the extra water hitting it
can i replace a central air unit myself? i have done much plumbing work (sweating pipe)
the unit is old and needs to be replaced soon. i can buy a new unit at cost, but being strapped for money i wanted to replace it myself. i do a lot of remodeling, much plumbing, but have never worked with central air piping, i know your only supposed to use copper tubing, and not staight pipe with fittings. can i replace the unit myself then call a hvac guy to charge up the unit? any help is apprieciated, thanks.
Question answered by Night0wl
First you have to make sure that the new a/c is the proper size, measured in tons ( 1 ton = 12,000 btu of cooling), this can be done by looking at the old unit, it will often have a model number that states the size of the unit (eg HS29-036 = 3 ton unit, or HS29-018 = 1.5 ton unit) It is important to match the size of the existing unit, otherwise you can cause reduced performance, or even shortened lifespan of the new unit)
Silver solder is an option if you are using an R-22 system, however, if you switch over to an R-410a system you will have to braze the lines as 410 operates at a much higher pressure, also if you use a 410a system you will have to replace the lineset (copper refrig tubes) and evaporator coil since you cannot mix different types of refrigerant.
As far as wiring is concerned, you'll have to check the local building codes in your area. Most likely though, you will need to have a disconnect on the outside of the house, which may or may not already be there. If its already there then you are pretty much in the clear as the wiring is often the easiest part, just run the line voltage (220v be careful) to the hot side of the contactor and then hook up the t-stat control wire to the coil of the contactor and you're done. Also you will need to verify that your electrical service is up to date (atleast a 60 amp beaker box, not fuses).
As several people have stated already, its not rocket science, but having it installed by a licenced professional is the recommended way. As an HVAC service technician myself, I have seen many DIY installs that have cost the customer more time, money and headaches in the long run due to simple mistakes that could have easily been avoided.
how do i wire in a 50 amp rv plug and breaker to my house?
Question answered by W
The rules and regulations very A LOT from location to location in this country. I'll tell you how I would do it where I learned the trade.
Start with a full sized 2 pole 50 amp breaker in your panel.
Run 6/3 romex from the panel in the house to a box as close as possible to the RV.
Where you exit the house sleeve it in 1" sch 80 pvc into a 2 x 4 x 3-1/2 deep FS (pvc) box.
Install a 50 amp 4 wire Range receptacle.
Install a in-use cover on that.
Get a 90 degree 50 amp 4-wire Range receptacle. I say 90 deg. so that the cover will close.
Run 6/4 SO cord to the RV.
Install a matching cord cap on the SO.
You may not be required to use sch 80 or the in-use cover, but I recommend doing so regardless.
If you have a panel outside you can connect to,
Run 1' sch 80 pvc all the way but install individual conductors rather than the romex. Black, red, white # 6 and # !0 green.
DO USE electrical pipe and fittings. PLEASE DO NOT use any plumbing pipe or fittings. One is rated 90 degrees centigrade and one is rated 60 pounds per square inch. They are NOT interchangeable! (I see people do so all the time and I just want to "smack 'em up side the head")
binding metal for go kart body no welding?
well i don't know what i can do because i don't have welding machine i want to build a go kart body and or mini bike and idk how i well do with out a welding machine
Question answered by chevyraceman_383
Not really. Sure you could use threaded steel 1" water pipes and threaded couplers, elbows, etc to build the frame.
But it still won't be as strong as it needs to be.
Also how will you go about putting the spindles on, rear axle, steering shaft, pitman arm, etc.
Plus the threaded steel pipe and fittings will cost more than the price of a cheap welder
1" steel threaded water pipe is around $1.15 per foot here, each coupler, elbow, etc is between 50 cents and $2 each.
A cheap 75 or 85 amp welder is $100-130
Then you can buy std steel. My kids and I just built 2 go karts. The steel we used was 1" x 1" x 14 gauge square tube for .79 cents per foots, and 1" x 14 gauge round tube for .84 cents per foot
Can I split 220v to my machines?
in my woodworking shop i have a 25ft. 220v 1ph line running from the breaker. i have acquired another machine that needs 220 for that same corner of the shop. the machines require the same amp breaker.
can i split this line to run to both machines? how would i do that exactly? would i have to have a relay?
don't have to meet codes here, just want to make sure the motors are protected.
i won't be running them simultaneously, but both machines use VFD/inverters for 3phase conversion so they would both be on.
edit: the vfds are built to be left on(low voltage) while the machines aren't running. so they'll both be on simultaneously, but the machines will never be running at the same time.
i just realized that they require different breakers. the line i have running to one drive is 20amp. the other drive calls for a 10 amp breaker. can i run the one line of 220 20 amp to a junction box and split the lines somehow? if so what kind of mechanism would i use to split it? and from there, could i add another 10 amp fused disconnect to the one vfd that requires that?
OR, would it be easier and cheaper or more expensive to just run a new line of 25ft flex conduit to the corner with a new 10 breaker in the panel?
Question answered by W
2nd edit: Ah, the plot thickens!
At this point I'm going to side with the suggestion of running a new circuit. You may use: EMT, Rigid or MC (metal clad) without a problem. But not NM (romex) in exposed work. If you chose to use PVC, Please buy ALL YOUR pipe and fittings in the Electrical Department, NOT the Plumbing Department. They are Not interchangeable (code wise) and it's a bear trying to pull wire thru and plumbing "L" viruses an electrical 90 degree fitting!
PS, I was wondering about the VFD's and wether or not they needed to have power at all times. I learned something today.
EDIT: Holly smokes! What the heck is going on?! I must not be reading the Q right. Here's what I thought you were saying
A) You have 2 machines that call for the same size circuit.
B) you won't be using them at the same time. Non concurrent loads.
C) you do intend to have them plugged in at the same time though.
Is that much correct?
If so, I am at a total loss as to what I have said that doesn't meet code. Or perhaps it is the comments about Code.
In any case, I sure would like to know the "Correct" way is. Lots of people have a problem with the answers given, but no one has said why. As in Quoting a section from the NEC or such.
Anybody care to set me straight?
Easiest way out is to install a 3 position disconnect switch. On-Off-On. One set of input terminals and two sets out. Takes care of that issue.
Now to clear up a misunderstanding that you (and lots of other folks have) You ARE required to meet code. Even if this workshop is on your own property. Ask your insurance agent if you think I'm wrong. If you have a commercial shop it is even more important to do so.
What are the odds of getting caught you ask?
Before a Fire.
Livewell how tos?
How do you make a livewell/bsitwell with little$$
Question answered by jtexas
Main things about keeping fish alive in the boat are, oxygen, temperature, and getting rid of waste.
You'll need two thru-hull livewell pumps (one for bringing fresh water in, the other for recirculation and pumpout), some hose & pvc, an aerator bar and a container -- I'm thinking at least 15, 20 gallons. And some 12-gauge wiring, couple inline fuse holders, 2-amp fuses, and a couple switches. Don't be tempted to omit the fuses, they really can save you from a fire on board, which can really ruin a good day of fishing.
Drill thru the transom below the waterline, couple inches above the bottom, over to the side where it won't be in the way of anything.
It'll be nerve-wracking, drilling thru the transom, but just keep in mind that every bass boat ever made has thru-hull livewell intakes.
Seal the fitting with 3m 5200 marine adhesive sealant -- that's the only thing I'd use -- there are probably others that would work but make sure it's a "marine" sealant. Regular silicone shrinks ever so slightly as it cures. And the transom is a critical part of the boat, don't take chances.
You can use plain old garden hose from the pump to the livewell.
The tricky part is, how to drain it. My livewell is built in; the overflow drain is a hole in the side of the boat, and it has a drain hole in the bottom of the livewell that's open to the lake.
But I made a bait tank with a pump for recirc and pump-out, out of a 20-gallon tub ($5.00 at walmarts), and some pvc pipe & misc fittings.
First, a thru-hull fitting near the top with a hose fitting for connecting the fill hose (I connect a "Y" off the livewell fill pump to this for filling the bait tank).
Then a hole near the bottom of the tub with the pump mounted on the outside, pvc to carry the water to the top and recirculate it back into the tub through the aerator. On the pvc, I've got a "T" fitting with valves, where I connect a 2nd hose for pumping out. You could use a submergible pump, but you'd have to worry about it raising the temperature of the water.
You have to be able to refresh the water (after fish have been in there awhile water will start getting toxic to 'em). Also 18 gal of water is nearly 150lbs you don't want to have to lift it out to empty it.
A lid cut out of 1/4" plywood, cut in half and put back together with a piano hinge.
Insulated with an "emergency blanket" ($1 in the camping aisle at wallymart -- it's a big silver mylar sheet) taped on with clear packing tape. It gets really hot here in the summer and that mylar is an excellent insulator -- same stuff covering the lunar module.
Bring some extra ice on really hot days. I freeze water in gatoraid bottles & toss one in every now & then.
Actually in my bait tank, the recirc pump discharge is split with half going thru a venturi for aeration and current, and the other half thru an activated charcoal filter (a tupperware dish with a paint strainer bag full of acquarium filter charcoal). But the bait I put in there is threadfin shad, which are really stupid and fragile creatures that'll die within minutes if conditions aren't just right.
For a livewell you wouldn't need to take extreme measures - an aerator bar would work just fine. or better yet, a hose running around the rim with holes poked in it.
When you fill it, leave several inches of empty space at the top, to give the recirculated water from the aerator plenty of time and momentum to carry oxygen into the water.
How much to add new septic, replace plumbing and electrical in a 4000 sq ft house build in 1875?
Looking at buying a house. The local building inspector says it needs some electrical and plumbing. It also has a cesspool instead of septic, so that would need to be replaced. We are in New England. Looking for a rough idea of cost so we can factor that into our bid.
2 hours ago - 4 days left to answer.
We are planning on replacing all of the walls and doing extensive remodeling ourselves, we just have no idea what we are looking at for the price of replacing plumbing and electric... We can't get estimates until we have placed a bid, so we are just looking for general info. Would it be safe to say $15,000 each for septic, plumbing and electric for a total of $45,000? Or should we plan for $25,000 each for septic, plumbing and electric for a total of $75,000? Just looking for a general ballpark ~ won't hold you to it, I promise :)
0 seconds ago
Question answered by Malcolm
As far as septic- You will need to have an engineer perform a PERC test to see what the drainage capability is for the soil. If the soil is not able to absorb the water in a timely manner, then you will have to either add more piping to distribute it out farther or go to an Aerobic system that grinds up the solids and then pumps the water out through a sprinkler system. The amount of water usage for a septic system is based on general usage plus an additional standard measurement for each bedroom(not square footage) in the house(used to determine how many people and how much water they will use-even if unoccupied most of the time). They will give you a base size for the septic tank and linear footage needed to handle the figured water consumption for the soil capability.
Plumbing- The most cost effective water supply at this time is the use of CPEC piping. It is flexible, can be mated to existing plumbing with easy to install adaptive fittings. This can be ran to a number of areas easily by use of a distribution manifold that splits the water to the areas needed.
Line size should be determined by the amount of water volume and pressure needed to each location. Can be installed by homeowner with the correct fitting crimping tool that comes with go/no go gauge to check installation. Plumbing must still follow construction codes for the area and will need to be inspected to pass.
Electrical-purchasing rolls of wire is more economical than buying a box here and there. You will need to determine what other things you might want to include-more outlets, lighting, newer appliances. If running additional sources, you might have to go to a larger meter base(increase in amperage) and a larger circuit breaker box to distribute additional area wiring. You must consider newer appliances that might have a higher amperage draw on the circuit. Types of outlets are also factor- Ground Fault Interrupts must be used around any wet location(bathroom, kitchen, garage). These are more expensive than a standard 15 or 20 amp circuit receptacle.
Numbers, numbers, numbers- what to do? By not being able to get estimates, its hard not to cut your resources short for the remodel. Ranging from 45,000-75,000 you might just take the middle ground and figure 60,000 that's 20,000 for each and what is not used on one-spend it on the other if needed, and what's left-use it to get ahead on the mortgage if you are borrowing.
I set up an "overdraft construction loan account" I don't know if banks will even still do this. I had the original loan amount deposited into this account and if it ran over budget, I had an extended principal( I think it was 20% without penalty or bank fees) if needed. When final work was completed, I went and closed the account and the balance used was the principal for my bank loan. We didn't run over, and remainder was credited.
Be sure to get regulations on local codes before performing improvements. Doing it once is costly, but having to do it over is worse. Figure in inspection costs and obtain permits for all work before beginning. Keep permits safe and posted if needed.
Easier to install Gas Line or 220v Outlet for a Dryer?
So we are moving into a small cottage and there are no laundry hookups. However, there is a small room that would make the perfect laundry room. The washer will be easy, but the dryer will be another story… Contemplating on whether to install a 220v outlet for an electric dryer or to just split the gas line from the water heater which is about 15-20 feet away in another room for a gas dryer… Which one would be easier? Is installing a 220v outlet as easy as changing out an old outlet or is there more involved with the breaker? Ideas? Suggestions? No I do not want to call a professional, no lectures please…
Question answered by John M
Both require some knowledge you can acquire in books if you are reasonably handy.
Electric: You'll need a new run of wire from the breaker panel to the dryer. The wire will need to be thick, usually 10 gauge wire for a 30 amp circuit. The breaker will be a double pole breaker rated for 30 amps as well. Your breaker panel needs to have two vacant slots for that, since each pole takes up a space in the panel. Vacant space in the panel is usually found by looking for the flat indented metal surface next to other breakers. Those are punched out to make room for additional breakers, but do that after you take the cover off the panel, not while it's mounted on the box. then you need the right amount of wire. Working back from the dryer, check to see if there is an existing cord on the dryer. Buy the dryer outlet to match, either three or four prongs. A three prong dryer outlet just needs 3 wires from the panel to the outlet, a red, a black and a white. The four prong outlet requires 4 wires, adding a ground wire to the set. I would run a 4 wire romex cable with the ground, even if your dryer only requires a 3 prong outlet. You can just leave the fourth wire unused until you upgrade your dryer and outlet to a four prong. The purists will tell you to upgrade the cord on the dryer to a four prong and do this right the first time. I'd be inclined to agree with them, but then, I'm complicated. Be sure to have the main power off for this project, as 220 volts is nothing to fool around with in terms of safety. But its not a difficult thing to do either, just read up on it, and work slowly and in good natural light or lit well by a battery powered light.
Gas. If you have a good shut off valve between the meter and the location you plan to use to split the gas line, you can run black pipe over to the dryer location. A gas dryer is cheaper to run and generally drys clothes faster if I remember correctly. You'll still need 110 electric to spin the drum and operate the electric controls, so if there isn't a 110 outlet near your spot for the dryer, you are probably looking at more work to do the gas version of a dryer.
But if the 110 is right there, and you have a place to easily tap into your rigid gas line near the water heater, you can do this with a couple of plumbers wrenches, some yellow teflon thread tape, the black pipe and black fittings you need to make your angles a shut off valve for gas at the dryer and a flexible gas line to connect to that valve and the dryer. Wrap the male threads on each joint with yellow teflon tape and be sure to do it in the right direction, so the tape stays in place as you turn the pipe. When you have all the joints together to the valve right before the flex pipe to the dryer, shut the valve off, open the supply valve on the other end, and test each joint with soapy water, looking for evidence of a leak. If you find one, shut off gas supply, vent the end valve, and tighten the joint and then test again. Don't go any farther than this step until all the joints have been tested and no evidence of a leak is found.