What would cause a 88 ford ranger to stall?
So what could be the causes of a 88' ford ranger to stall? Its got new fuel pump, oil pump, distributor module. 20 minutes later it's back in action though. Do you think it could be a heating core or radiator problem?
Question answered by rayo_ca
not sure what climate you are in but it could the cold start valve or a vaccum leak. Did you replace the fuel filter when you did the pump?
How to take off the fuel injectors in a 1982 vw rabbit?
I have a 1982 vw rabbit 1.7 l and got new fuel injectors for it. The problem is i have no idea how to take them out because there is no rail line, and absolutly no information on the internet about how to do it on such a old model. HELP
Question answered by Motorhead
I believe the 1982 is the CISe system, (Constant Injection System), which is continuous nozzles and not electronic injection.
Each injector nozzle is simply on a braided hose from the fuel distributor, and plugs into the manifold with an O ring.
But by now the O ring is rock hard, so it will be very hard to remove the injectors.
At VW we used to have a little 2 prong tool to help pry them out, but oil to soften the rubber, and lots of wiggling to slowly work past the O ring, will succeed.
Do not pull on the fuel lines, because even though they look tough being braided, they are really just plastic underneath, and are not that strong.
At the link, you can see the deep groove for the O ring.
Make sure you get new ones, because the old ones won't seal any more once you get them out.
Make sure none stay behind in the plastic hole in the manifold.
By the way, you can't have a common fuel rail on a CIS system because if one injector nozzle opens easier then the rest, it would steal fuel from the others. They each have to have their own regulated fuel source, which is what the black fuel distributor does.
With electronic injection it does not matter because only 1 injects at a time, instead of continuous injection.
What should I do first to a 1992 fuel-injected Miata that sat parked for 3 years in order to drive it?
The battery died at the same time I got a new truck so it was running fine when parked. I am in Central CA so the climate gets hot but almost never freezes, the car is outside. Should I change the oil, drain the tank and put in new gas, and squirt wd40 (or ?) in the cylinder heads to make sure the rings don't stick? I was going to turn the engine over by hand first.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Question answered by NONAME
First use a flushing oil, then change the oil and flush the radiator and refill with a mix 50/50 water antifreeze. Fit new wires, spark-plugs and fit a new distributor. Clean out the old fuel and put in fresh gas and a full bottle of SeaFoam or B12 to rid the system of gum residue into the fuel tank. Fit a NEW battery. Remove the spark plugs and spin the engine over a couple of times and then refit the spark-plugs and you should be good to go. However, ask yourself why the vehicle sat for three years unused.
mmalky: 50 years fixing auto engines.
should i keep the ls1 in my 1995 camaro or should i buy an ls2?
if i keep the ls1 i will super charge it, change the intake manifold, and exaust but that would cost as much as a ls2 (a gm 364 crate engine) and it has 440 hp but if i do deside to install the ls2 then would i have problems with oil or fuel pressure what might i need ? please do not look this up. i need expericed help only sorry.
502 or die
Question answered by
As was said before you should have an LT1 in that vehicle not an LS1. I would recommend a new fuel pump for the car the oil will not be a problem as that going to be a new pump with the new crate motor. If it is an LT1, which it will be unless you have previously swapped motors, you are going to have wiring harness problems. The LT1 runs an optispark distributor while the LS1/LS2 run 8 individual coil packs, 1 for each plug. There will also be other wiring problems with this swap. You may also have clearance issues if it is an LT1 going to an LS motor with the exhaust. As far as your tranny, it will be fine, you will need a new flywheel and such if it is a manual, and a new torque converter if it is the 4L60E but either transmission will bolt to the LS block. You have a heck of a tough job ahead of you. My suggestion is that the price of 2002 camaros with an LS1 engine already in it is a much better investment than swapping motors in a 95 because when you eventually get tired of the car you will have the correct engine in it and have a much higher resale potential.
Hope that helps
What does it mean if all of my car spark plugs are oil fowled?
By oil fowled i mean when i pull them out they are more or less soaked with oil. Does this mean old plugs or bad engine my old car did it too.
Question answered by Michael
If you're certain it's oil, it could be coming up past your rings or down past your valve stem seals. However, it's more likely that your fuel mixture is too rich. This will result incomplete combustion, soot on the plugs and wet fuel from the incomplete combustion before the last shutdown; once this goop (that looks like oil) fouls the plugs, they don't fire as well which only exacerbates the problem. You are more likely to have an over-rich condition in a carbureted engine, though a fuel-injected engine with faulty sensors or computer can cause this as well. One other, more remote, possibility is that you have an electrical problem leading to weak ignition which will also cause incomplete combustion.
Clean and gap your plugs. While holding the plug wire boot (wear gloves and rubber soled shoes just to be safe), hold the ground electrode of a plug against the engine block and have someone crank the engine. You want to be able to see a nice hot spark even in daylight and hear it snapping. That should confirm a good ignition system. From there you can trouble-shoot the fuel system which is more complicated than I can get into in a short answer.
If the ignition spark is weak, try a different plug to see if you get the same result. You can inexpensively change plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, points (if your car is really old) and ignition coil. Important: do these one at a time and then test your results after each step. Nothing worse than spending a bunch of time and money changing 10 items, having symptoms worsen and not knowing which ingredient or action you did was at fault.
One other thing you can check is the exhaust. If your plugs are truly oil fouled, you should get white/blue smoke out of the exhaust and an oily burned smell. If it's a fuel-rich condition, then you would expect a darker smoke and a strong smell of fuel.
If it's really oil, it doesn't necessarily mean you need new rings or to rebuild the heads. Make sure your crankcase ventilation is not plugged--that can be a simple solution to an oily problem.
How often do I need an oil change and tune up?
I have a 97 Acura 2.5 TL. How often do I need an oil change? how often do I need a tune up? Is there anything else I need to be doing on a regular basis? I know nothing about cars. This is my first one.
Question answered by sarge927
Let's break it down:
OIL AND OIL FILTER CHANGE -- Your owners manual will tell you to get your oil changed at a certain interval, but they give a "one size fits all" answer. It depends on your driving habits. If you do mostly stop-and-go driving or short trips where the engine doesn't run continuously for at least 20 minutes, change your oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first. If you do mostly highway driving or longer trips, you can get away with every 6 months or 6,000 miles, whichever comes first.
TUNE-UP: You shouldn't need an honest-to-goodness tune-up until the car hits 100,000 miles. Spark plugs and wires are designed to last a lot longer nowadays, and electronic ignition systems have replaced the old distributor caps and rotors that used to wear out after a year or so.
TIRE ROTATION: Have the tires rotated every 6,000 miles or so. This will even out the treadwear. Make sure to check the air pressure in the tires every month too. There should be a sticker inside the well of the driver's door that lists the tire pressure for all four tires (usually 35 PSI).
AIR FILTER REPLACEMENT: Replace at least once a year, twice a year if you do the stop-and-go or short-trip driving a lot. A lot of people neglect air filters and they're making a big mistake. It's cheap insurance to keep your engine running.
WINDSHIELD WIPER BLADE REPLACEMENT: No time frame on this, just replace them when you notice they're not working well anymore.
FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER: It's a good idea to put a bottle of good-quality fuel injector cleaner like Valvoline fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank once or twice a year. Wait until your tank is almost empty, then put the fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank BEFORE you start filling up.
The rest of the important stuff like brakes, belts, fuel filters, etc., should be covered in the Owners Manual.
What to do with a Fuel Oil Tank?
I have a fuel oil tank in the basement of my house in Upstate NY. It has about 150 gallons of fuel in it that has been sitting for 4-5 years. I am trying to sell the house and need to get the fuel removed from the tank. Does anyone have any inexpensive ideas of what to do with it?
Question answered by split dog
In NY, unless you have ninja skills & can make it disappear in the middle of the night, It might be best to call your oil distributor for advice.
They may give you credit for the oil & be able to recommend
a removal outfit for the tank or do it for you if they are certified.
The cost of legal removal of the oil & the tank , maybe even soil testing ,is nothing compared to the fines for illegal disposal if you get caught...
Sure you need to have it removed ?
Can I run a diesel generator off of home heating oil?
Is it possible to run a diesel generator off of home heating oil? Any info would be appreciated.
Question answered by Jeff D
Home heating oil is a rather generic term that covers a variety of fuels, including Fuel Oil #2 which is identical to off road Diesel #2. However, home heating oil may also contain Diesel #1, Kerosene, Fuel Oil #4, Fuel Oil #6, etc. Diesel #1 and Kerosene are OK in a diesel engine whereas Fuel Oil #4 and Fuel Oil #6 are less so.
The only one who knows for sure what's in your heating oil is your distributor. So call them up and ask what's in it and if it's OK to use in a diesel generator.
My 1999 Dodge Durango wont start. I just got a new distributor cap and bug put on.It is getting spark and fuel?
The air filter is also clean. I put off getting my oil changed for a while and it did loose oil pressure off and on frequently. I just changed it tho. The motor isn't locked up. Please help!!! Thanks everone!
Also when I turn the key the fuel pump does come on (I checked the little pin thingy at the engine and fuel blew out) I checked for a spark and got one. The engine turn over and over just never starts.
Question answered by Jackolantern
Fuel out the pin thingy is good. However you have to have about 30 lbs of fuel pressure to spray through the injectors or you will just get a small drip. Check the pressure! If it's OK then check the cylinders compression. You should get over 100 lbs per each. You may have a jumped timing chain!
Why is it important to keep the distributor dry when cleaning a car engine?
Why do you want to prevent water from getting on the distributor?
Ð4MÃN!™ (End the Fed!)
Question answered by Matt
Water and electricity are like oil and water. They don't mix. Having a wet distributor cap will cause you to have an uncontrolled spark and that means that your plugs aren't getting the spark that they need to ignite the fuel.