What is the difference between a 12 V 12 AH deep-cycle battery and a 12 v 12 ah AGMbattery?
I have a Sonic Scooter by the Scooter store and need batteries
Glenna M C
Question answered by TXm42
Here's some info about Batteries,,,it's good stuff/valid Info,,,no BS or mis-info,,no sale pitch.
Do realize however,that any recommendations found within are regarding a Particular Application which may be May Not be IDEAL for YOUR application.
AGM's are latest-greatest,,,,and DO offer lots of advantages.
For an Electric Vehicle,,,or ANYTHING which runs on "Total-Loss" system,,,,,
A Deep Cycle Battery is still generally Best overall,,in my opinion.
"Total Loss" means ,,,the Battery gets Drained by the operation without receiving any CHARGING while IN Operation
A Flashlight,,Portable Radio,Boat Trolling Motor,,,Most Electric Vehicles,,,Golf Carts,Scooters,WheelChairs,,,and so on.......
These are examples of "Total Loss".
They RUN straight off Battery without receiving any Charging at same time.
Then the BATTS get ReCharged when Unit is OUT of service and No Load is being drawn from the Battery
Cars,Motorcycles,,,etc have built-in Generators/Alternators which "Constantly" Charge their Battery while the Vehicle Runs,,,
and the Charging System usually helps Share the Electrical Load with the Battery as the vehicle is in operation.
Anyway....NORMALLY for things like Scooters,,,
You Go Farther per AH (Amp / Hour) on a Deep Cycle Battery.
And,,,as the Battery begins to drain down and weaken ,,,Deep Cycle Batteries Usually maintain a Higher Level of Strength down to the pint where they're "dead".
So,,you can think of them as running STRONGER LONGER than other Types.
Theoretically,,,a "12AH battery is a 12AH Battery"-----
It'll Provide Current for 12 Hours at a 1 Amp per Hour Drain Rate.
And that's pretty much True.
But the Deep Cycle's remain a bit Stronger as they get down towards the end of their capacity.
Another Primary Benefit,,,mostly from their CONSTRUCTION,,,,, is that Deep Cycles are Made to accept More Recharge Cycles.
They DO Last LONGER in Applications of Constant DIS-charge/Recharge cycles
AGMs,,,CAN get very near the Life of a usual Deep Cycle.
But they "get there" from a different route.
The Effects of their Construction & Function increase their life sorta as an "added bonus".
Compared to DeepCycles which are Deliberately Constructed for purpose of Increased Life.
Hope that helps.
*** Shop around for Batts,,,prices can vary a Bunch.
Japanese/USA/European batteries are considered to be Better/Last Longer than Chinese ones.
Tuff to say which is the better value,,,,I dont have any experience in Real-World Comparrisons of enough examples to say which is better.
But I do know that Many Chinese batteries do not last long at all.
So,,,even at perhaps "Half the Price" they MAY not be a bargain??
Most Probably your Scooter CAME with a Chinese battery,,,so You can reasonably expect that to be Typical of "worst case scenario".
If You Do happen to end up with a Chinese Batt,,,it should be approx the same as what You've experienced with your Original Batt.
I hope I'm not making them sound Terrible,,,just trying to get across that they are Normally on the lower end of Quality/Life Scale because they are ECONOMY models--made to be "cheapies"/Inexpensive.
NOT that they are actually BAD...OK??LOL
what kind of motorized bikes / scooters can i take on an interurban trail?
Trying to save up and fix up my car/ get a new car, for now i need a different ride i would like something motorized so i can go kind of fast not ridiculous maybe 30 mph at the most but a little under would still be cool, thanks guys
an interurban trail is a trail that cuts through wooded areas, along side freeways, and other places basicly just a big tairl connecting to other trails throughout the city and to other citys but is always built by the city so its more a small road than a path
what website can i get one of the bikes at mark?
Question answered by Mark
what is a interurban trail ?
edit ,, yeah a lot of places like that prohibit motorized vehicles . im sure gas powered bikes and scooters are a no go on those trails.
i just built a an elec bicycle . actually i just ordered the kit online and installed it.
has a 500 watt 36 volt front wheel hub motor .
goes about 25 mph
but to save the battery i go about 15 mph .
draw back is it only goes about 10 miles on a charge.
but i could double that if it added another battery pack.
the good thing is , i can legally ride it any place a regular bicycle is allowed to ride.
i usually ride on side walks.
if you go look at the trails you want to ride on. i bet they have sign that lists what you can and
google "36V500W 26" Front Wheel Electric Bicycle Motor Kit E-Bike Cycling Hub Conversion Ebay "
then search for the seller named " Xcceries " that is who i bought mine from.
it was $230 that incliudes free shipping . i recieved mine in about 5 days , comes from california.
that is the entire kit inclding the 36 volt charger a great deal .
the i bought the batteries from " battery shark " in new york , cheapest i found . .. the 3 ..12 volt batteries at 12 amp hours $75 with shipping , again just few days to recieve them.
if have any questions email me.
to you other readers ,,,this is not spam, just passing along the info.
or walmart sells a complete bike online for $400... but it is a 24 volt with chain drive. but comes with batts and all. you see them online. i have never ridden one .
Im new to boats so can i have some motor help?
im getting a 10 ft fishing boat and I want a 3-5 HP motor but I need an electric one so do you guys know any good electric motors for cheap 800 bucks max and by a decent brand like coleman?
Question answered by Mark
i would not buy an elec motor from coleman , that's for sure !
buy from someone that makes elec motors , that will warranty it etc.
google elec trolling motors and read about them and learn about them before you buy one.
if you are going to spend 800 , you should look at " Minn Kota. " they have been the big brand in elec trolling motors for ever.
also , motors came in 12 ,24 and 36 volts . more volts more power and speed.
you will want more that 1 battery anyway , 2 batts is 24 volts and 3 batts is 36 volts .
the way you judge you batt capacity is by how many " amp hours " you batt has. the more amp hours the more you can use it . and you will need good rechargable deep cycle batteries.. so you need to read and learn about batteries before you buy a motor. it will help you decide what you want.
you can look at the kind of batts that they put in mobility scooters and golf carts . that is the type of batt you want.
the cheapest place i have found for batteries is " battery shark " out of NY . shipping is not that bad and their prices are way better that any other place i have found.
you are going to want at 3 batts for capacity even if you go with 12 volt motor.
So that is why i said you should read up on it and see what you need for boat.
my electric bicycle is 36 volts. 3 - 12 volt batteries in series.
I want to buy a motor for a dolley that is used to pull 90 lbs. What kind of motor should I buy?
I know very little about motors. I know there are different kinds of motors - servo, gearbox, etc. I also want to know if I need a controller for the on/off switch. How much voltage will I need. This motor will take the energy from batteries. Please help.
I want to know the torque, current, voltage, restistance, etc. Thanks.
Thank you, Ecko. Information you have provided is very useful and I can do more research on each of the parameters. BTW, the dolly will be used mainly on flat. concrete surfaces and it will go on the incline but not very often. However, I know I have to account for that incline as well.
Question answered by Ecko
The first thing to determine is the power involved. This is measured in watts (mechanical).
There are three issues involving power:
Acceleration. The rate we increase speed (acceleration in m/s/s), and the mass (kg) that changes speed (includes the load and the vehicle) are needed for this.
F = ma
Force_newtons = mass_kg x acceleration_m/s/s.
One newton accelerates 1kg by 1 meter per second per second.
The power comes from:
Power_W = (force_newtons x distance_m) / time_s
Losses to overcome. These involve the friction losses, not so easy to estimate. They can be measured using a weight to pull the vehicle. There is often a starting force to get things moving and a running force that may change with speed. Friction due to air comes in at higher speeds. Friction in the transmission system (gears, bearings, pulleys, tires is included..
It might be simpler to just increase the power determined without friction by some estimated factor, like 100%.
If the vehicle goes up or down an incline there is more or less power needed due to the acceleration provided by earth's gravity. Downhill could require braking.
Power_W = (Mass_kg x Gravity_m/s/s x Height_m) / time_s
Where gravity is 9.81m/s/s.
The power required is the sum of the powers required at the same time to achieve your requirements.
A gearbox adjusts the speed of a motor delivering this power to the speed of the wheels. The motor may be rated at full power with 12V and 2000rpm for example. The rpm of the wheels comes from the distance traveled in one minute / circumference. Speed in meters per minute, circumference in meters.
It seems like you will need around 250W or more from comparison with other things like a wheel chair. Starting friction is a point of difference I suspect.
Yes a reversing speed controller is very useful. Iyt may also provide current limiting (motor and battery protection). You still need a fuse. It may be that 12V or 24V battery suits. Two x 12V batteries in series for 24V makes each one lighter, and reduces the cable size as only half the current.
The electrical power is probaly like mechanical power/0.7 for 70% efficient. The electrical load current at full power is around 360W/12V = 30A for a 12V battery. Thus a motor speed controller for 12V @ 32A or more continuous running current, that can handle 250A starting current for a few seconds. Big cables like a starter motor.
The battery capacity comes from twice the average current over the period of time required, in Ah (ampere-hours). If the average current is 10A and the time 8h then 160Ah does it. Fairly large. That is an incentive for 24V. This allows the battery to discharge to 50%, and will work for a longer battery life.
The battery charger charges the battery in 14 hours with a current equal to:
Capacity_Ah/10. A 160Ah battery needs a 16A charger. A 20A charger is ok. A ten amp charger takes longer. Keep the battery fully charged always. Use a marine type or deep cycle type.
It might be possible to adapt a mobility scooter for this. These are a cheaper way to get all the parts needed. Depends what your load is, I suppose, how you get it on and off safely.
Finally, torque comes from power and rpm.
torque_N.m = (60000 x Power_KW) / (2pi x RPM)
Is it legal to ride battery scooter in uk west midlands?
Hi im interested in buying the Xtreme Pro 800w Scooter
Here Link: http://www.storacingproducts.com/xtreme-pro-800w-scooter-p30277.html
Watts: 800 Watts
Volts: 48 Volts (not 24v like others use)
Batteries: Three 12 volt 12 Amp Full Size Batteries
Tire Size: 10" Aluminum Mag Wheels (Oversize Tires)
Charger: Smart Charger Included
Tool Kit: Included
Speed: Up To 35 Mph
Distance: Up To 17 miles per charge
Suspension System: Front And Rear Suspension System
Throttle Type: Variable speed control
Kick Stand: Included - Welded To Frame
Braking System: Front And Rear Disk Brake System:
Yes - Folds & Locks In Folded Position
Frame: High Tensile Steel (Good For Jumping)
Deck: ABS - Resin-QR
Handlebars: 20 Inch Billet Aluminum Racing Bars (See image below)
Design: Stand Up / Optional Sit Down Seat Kit Included Scooter Size:
Length 44" Height 42"
Max Rider Weight: 130 Kg
Scooter Weight: 25 Kg
Controller: Heavy Duty (36 Amp)
Spring Loaded Seat:Yes
Forks: Polished Steel Shocks
Height: 42 Inches To Handle Bars & the seat is adjustable.
Can i ride the scooter? or shall i forget buying it?
Please let me know ASAP
Question answered by alvin f
The answer is in your link:
This is not a road legal scooter therefore cannot be driven on UK roads!
Under Europe-wide type approval legislation passed in June 1999, electric bicycles that did NOT need to be pedalled for the motor to operate were banned, with manufacturers being given three years to comply (June 2003). This has now been extended to 9th Novemenr 2003.
To remain exempt from motor vehicle legislation, an electric bicycle must comply with the following:
1) power no more than 250 watts rated output
2) motor must stop when you stop pedalling
3) motor power should reduce as you reach the maximum speed (25kph)
4) maximum weight 40 kilos
5) bike complies with existing United Kingdom pedal cycle standards.
Electric and petrol-powered micro-scooters are not, and never have been, road legal in the UK. Recent court rulings have imposed heavy penalties on users, treating the machines as small motorcycles in law. Thus, riding an electric scooter in a public place (a public road, footpath or cyclepath) can result in prosecution for riding without insurance, MOT, tax, and a BS-standard motorcycle helmet, resulting in hefty fines and (according to a number of recent cases) points on your driving licence. Consequently, we are unable to recommend an electric scooter. The electric bicycles below are treated as conventional bicycles, but riders must be over 14 years of age.
In GB, the EAPC Regulations; apply to certain bicycles, tandem bicycles or tricycles fitted with pedals by means of which they are capable of being propelled. For the regulations to apply, the motor assistance must be provided by an electric motor and not by an internal combustion engine. The electric motor must not be able to propel the machine when it is travelling at more than 15mph. Furthermore, the vehicle must also meet the following requirements:
Maximum kerbside weight (including batteries but without rider) shall not exceed
- Bicycle: 40 kg - Tandem Bicycle: 60 kg - Tricycle: 60 kg
Maximum continuous rated power output of the motor shall not exceed
- Bicycle: 200W - Tandem Bicycle: 250W - Tricycle: 250W
An EAPC which complies with the above is not considered to be a motor vehicle within the meaning of The Road Traffic Act 1988. As a result, it is not required to be registered, pay vehicle excise duty (road tax) or be insured as a motor vehicle. No EAPC may be ridden by anyone under the age of 14 years.
The Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations ; also specify requirements for EAPCs. These include a requirement to display a plate showing the manufacturer, the nominal voltage of the battery, and the continuous rated output of the motor.
Building an Electric Scooter... some clarification wanted?
Im going to build up an electric scooter from a Razor push scooter. I have had some experience with motors and electronics with RC planes, but i have a few questions about the certain components and the sizes needed when changing to wheels.
First, motors. I was considering this motor
because it seemed to have enough power (if maybe too much). Is this a good choice if i want speeds to like 20mph?
Also i dont understand how the resistance that the ground gives for the wheels does not burn up a motor. In planes, the propellor cant be too big or it will draw too many amps and hurt the motor and battery. Does something like this apply to scooters.
Also about the battery.
I was considering
but Im getting a bit confused with the battery necesarry as well. I hear that you should use a deep cycle 12 volt batteries but i thought lipos would be better. This battery should provide like 30 minutes on half throttle im assuming?
If both of these are way off could someone suggest some good websites for guidance so i understand this a bit better before buying parts?
Thanks in advance
Not putting a propellor on a scooter, just wondering if there is a possibility of drawing too many amps if your motor is not big enough because of the weight of the scooter. Like does it hurt a motor if it is on but something is preventing it from spinning.
What battery would you recommend then?
Question answered by Ray;mond
Riding scooters top speed 4 MPH, 200 watt motor typically use a pair of 12 volts, 12 amp hours sealed deep cycle lead acid batteries. They run about 7 miles on a full charge. You likely want about 12 MPH, which likely cuts your range to about 3 miles if you frequency demand the maximum. 5 miles if your weight is 40 kilograms instead 75 kilograms. The scooter weighs about 40 kilograms.
I have another scooter more like what you have in mind: top speed 12 MPH on a slight down grade, 100 watt motor, same pair of batteries, same range at average of 4 MPH. The scooter only weighs about 20 kilograms, half of that is the pair of batteries. I often push the scouter with both feet on rough ground or up hill, as it has poor torque at low speeds such as 2 MPH. Pushing with my feet is not practical faster than 2 MPH. The motor gets hot to the touch on rough ground, even with the help of my feet, but does not over heat at 2 MPH on smooth flat terrain which is typical here in Florida. Neil
What batteries should I use for a small scale wind turbine?
I am making a small scale wind turbine for school as an independent study. I will be following the plans on the following sites/videos:
I will need a way of measuring the power generated and will probably require a battery bank to do this.
I'm sure it will depend on what motor (generator) I use. I was planning on using an old treadmill motor if I can find one and if not probably one of these:
My question is what form of battery should I use? I have a relatively tight budget and would need the biggest bang for my buck. Should I use a bunch of 12 volts? larger? when it comes to batteries I'm kind of clueless so any help is VERY MUCH appreciated.
It will be running for quite some time and I need to track how much energy I can generate over an extended period of time without using a logging tool (they cost too much)
Question answered by Rudydoo
Hey Woodrow, Billruss is correct that a battery is not a measuring device, but I'm guessing that you knew this already and were planning on using the battery as a primary source for your windpower, then you could measure charge rates pretty inexpensively. If it were me, I would stay with 12 volts if possible for 2 reasons. First, it is much easier to find devices, such as lights, radios and other things to use as a load for very little money. You probably have lots of that around the house. The same goes for the generator you finally select, many work well for 12 volt charging. Second, there is a large selection of batteries as well, and if you decide on a larger voltage, you can always string batteries together for a higher nominal voltage too, so your parts list has great interchangeablility. One good suggestion for a generator is the electric scooter motor. They are generally 24 volt, but work well to charge a 12 volt battery, this gives you a larger range of working RPM's. They are usually permanent magnet and easy to find at low cost. If you have a large enough battery bank, all you would need for a charge controller is a suitably sized diode from a radio shop. A diode is an electrical check valve, this will allow wind power into your batteries, but not allow the battery power back out to spin the propeller.
It's funny you talk about data logging equipment being expensive, we had the same situation 12 years ago. We wanted to know just how much wind and sun we had available at our cabin up north, but didn't want to spend the cash on just the instruments. In the end, we purchased a Southwest Wind Power Air 303 turbine, made for a sailboat, one Solarex 50 watt panel, and 4 golf cart batteries. All that stuff plus wiring and disconnects cost about the same as the data logging stuff, but this way we could get the same information and be producing some of our own power already. Well today our home is completely powered by the wind and sun, but our little 12 volt system is still in place running our cabinet lights, garden lights, radio, answering machine and a few other items. It's been handy having 12 volt power available in all the rooms in our home.
There is a magazine that gets into the nuts and bolts of this stuff, it's called, "Home Power." They liked our idea so much years ago that they ran an article on it. If you subscribe, you can use their own search engine to find our article, look for, "Small System First." Our project did exactly what we planned on, we spent 2 years collecting data with some inexpensive amp and volt meters and log sheets, then used the information against our electric bills to determine exactly how big a system we would need to run the entire home.
What you want for batteries is deep cycle lead acid, that will be your best bang for the buck. The Trojan T-105 is excellent, 6 volts and 220 amp hours each, you need to buy them in pairs for 12 volts. Many golf cart repair shops sell them, and some offer reconditioned ones for a lot less. For even less money, we tried used hospital generator batteries. They are very large, weigh over 200 pounds, but have to be replaced every 36 months even if they are not used. There will be a battery place somewhere in town that has a contract to do these things, then they sell the 3 year old ones very cheaply. Ours worked for about 5 more years after I bought it. You should get a copy of Richard Perez's book at the library, I'll list it and some other sources below. Consider a sub to Home Power, for about $25 a year, it's a great resource for articles, and places to buy stuff you didn't know existed. Also, in the back of the magazine they list energy fairs in the calendar section. If it's possible, get to one in your area, you'll learn more in a day there then in a month of reading. Good luck with your project Woodrow, and take care, Rudydoo