Why does my subwoofer hum when any device that's connected to my TV is connected to my receiver?
I own a Sony STR-DG500 6.1-channel receiver, a Cerwin-Vega active subwoofer, and a Sony 55" 1080p SXRD projection TV. When I connect ANY RCA cable (digital OR analog connection) to the STR-DG500 that's connected to a component that has any sort of connection whatsoever to the television (DVD player via analog stereo OR coaxial digital; cable box via analog stereo; even my iPod via a docking station, if the video connector is connected to the TV) I get a horrible hum through my subwoofer. If I use an optical connection or disconnect the component from the television, the hum goes away. If I connect an audio-only device via any connection, there is no hum. Hum persists regardless of subwoofer phase, volume setting, or crossover freq. Any ideas would be appreciated - amp and sub have both been in for warranty service, but problem persists despite assurances from the local Sony-auth. shop that the problem was found, diagnosed, and repaired. Thanks.
Question answered by Scott W
What your hearing is most likely a problem with your grounds. Is your sub plugged into the same outlet as the rest of your system using a surge or power conditioner. If not you should look into getting one. If the sub is far away from the tv make sure its at least on the same circuit as the tv. You can also try turning off that circuit and pulling out the outlet and tightening down on all the screws that are connecting the copper to it, over time they do loosen up some. Worst case, you can use a ground lift bought at any hardware store to lift the ground on the sub or tv and that will also probably clean up the hum. A warning if you do this though, by lifting the ground if the device shorts out the outer chassis of it will become charged due to no ground being attached so dont touch it until it gets unplugged, its a very minor chance of that happening but it can.
existing house, bilt in 1900 w/ sml dugout basmt want to expand basmt & repair sag flrs need 2 brace walls etc
foundation settling. need more room. considering adding on. thought putting in a bigger basmt and fixing sagging floors. thinking addition as a basmt instead of building out. floors and walls need to be sured up. building basment and moving house onto the basement is not an option because of outside room for such a project.
Question answered by Randy
The traditional method for doing this is to support the house with temporary beams while you dig out the basement and put in new floor, sanitary drain systems and water connections. As long as you are going to this much effort it is a good time to upgrade the electric system to 200 amp service.
Even if you are going to do this work yourself, you should get a profession contractor to advise you. They type of subsoil strength (to support weight) should be analyzed. Where to place the temporary support beams is very important. They should be under supporting walls. When they are installed you just can’t lift with them, it must be a slow process where the house has time to move and adjust because the structure will twist and turn during the process. It is likely that over the years the house has settled unevenly and there are multiple sags. This is the time to address and repair those situations.
If I were you, I would contact a local building mover. He will be familiar with what the problems are to lift and to reset. Good luck.
My house was built in 1913 and has many of the problems that you mentioned. Although mine does have a basement (with 11 feet from floor to main floor beams) I am likely going to be doing the same thing in about 3 years. First however I am going to be redoing the garage from a 16 by 20 to a 22 by 40 with a green house off the back.
any advice on what to add or change on my resume please thank you.?
1415 Tobias Dr
Chula Vista, CA 91911
Objective:Seeking full time employment in the skills that will allow me to utilize both my extensive skills in customer service and technical experience.
Education:High school diploma
Pueblo De Los Angeles high school
Los Angeles CA, 90031
Work history:Outsource Telecom. San Diego, CA2012-present
Voice/Data pre-wire installation, testing & certifying of installed cable, rj11 & 45 connectors, 24 and 48 port patch panel termination, grounding and bonding, coax, closet build, cross connects, cable tray install, cable pathway setting, a/b standard jack termination, high pair cable termination ( 25, 50, 100, 200, 300 pair ), outside plant, demolition of old unused cable, trouble shooting, 66 and 110 block termination, nurse call, Fire alarm and Security pre-wire, final installation of security contacts and fire alarm devices, motion sensors, key pads, heat detectors, smoke detectors, glass break sensors, horn strobes, pull stations, CCTV, intercom paging systems, home automation installation for new and existing construction projects, multi-room speaker install, motorized projector lifts, vacuum install, key pads, In-wall & In-ceiling speaker systems, surround sound speakers, volume controls, audio/video conferencing, paging systems, and lighting control.
G.T.M. Liquidators.Santee, CA2010-2011
Cashier, stocking, customer service, pricing, inventory count, shipping & receiving, distribution of merchandise to local company stores.
Berg electric corp. Escondido, CA2005-2010
Voice/Data and CCTV, pre-wiring for brand new or existing construction projects, rj11 and 45 connectors, patch panel termination, data racks, Panduit, ortronics, Leviton, AMP (jacks), cross connects, 110 and 66 block termination, lead man on short and long term projects, grounding and bonding of telco rooms, closet build, desktop user drops, moves/adds/changes (MACs), fiber optic termination (anaerobic, unicam), testing and certifying of installed cable, new casino construction projects, cable dressing, ladder rack installation, coax, retro installation, phone/data jack termination, casino slot machines secure data cabling, troubleshooting, cable tray installation, outside plant, high pair cable termination ( 25, 50, 100, 200, 300 pair), demolition of old/unused cable, break-fix maintenance and repair services, setting up cable pathway for cable pulling, trouble shooting skills, use of basic blue print reading, experience in fire and security alarm pre-wiring and termination of smoke detectors, horn strobes, pull stations, door and window contacts, panic bars, door & window contacts, motion sensors.
TEK Systems staffingLa Jolla, CA2002-2004
Voice/Data cabling, a/b standard jack termination, rj11 and 45 crimps, Panduit installation, hilti certified, coax termination (RG 6 and 59), fire alarm and security wiring, door/window security contacts, moves adds & changes (MACs) of existing voice/data locations and previous field lead man.
References: Adrian Flores
Chula Vista, CA 91911
Chula Vista, CA 91911
Escondido, CA 90045
can anyone help me out on how to fix it or what to fix and remove maybe in better words aswell
Question answered by malica
Don't forget to include your job title for each job, eg: "Software Developer - Microsoft Corporation, Redmond WA, July 2012-Present"
The job descriptions need to be COMPLETELY re-written. Employers don't want to read a huge block of text there and they seem to be just laundry lists of things without any clear indication what you actually did for each. For example the final job listed did you do installation of these things? Maintenance? Did you design new systems from scratch or just follow someone's instructions etc. Look up samples of resumes or pick up a book on resume writing (even "Resumes for Dummies") to see what nicely formatted bullet lists look like. They make your resume far more readable and aesthetically pleasing.
Move your education to the bottom (a high school diploma is not much of anything to brag about, so don't feature it as your first section), and references need to be removed. Print them out separately and bring them to your interviews. They do not belong on resumes.
Where can I find a DC power supply that puts out at least 65 amps @ 12 volts, or at least 32.5A @ 12V?
I'm looking for a DC power supply that plugs into a regular 110V wall outlet, and puts out at least 65A @ 12V, 90A max, or at least 32.5A @ 24V (not sure what the max amperage would need to be for 24V). It's to power a hydraulic wheelchair lift that's installed in my house. So far I've been using a car battery, but I'm tired of taking it outside to charge every few days. I got the specs from the manual, and I said 90A max because the local technician installs 90A circuit breakers on his when He installs in a wheelchair van.
So far I've had no luck with google, or ebay.
Getting a 120v motor...that's an interesting suggestion. Any chance I could just swap out the motor, without having to do any other modifications?
Question answered by Achmed the Dead Terrorist
I don't know what kind of motor drives the hydraulic pump, but apparently it is 12 dc. Why not look into getting a 120 volt ac motor and eliminate the 12 volt problem altogether. I am sure it will be cheaper ( and safer ) than adding more equipment.
Check with a local W.W. Grainger and they might have a motor for you.
Best of luck
* Additional information added *
I don't know what you unit looks like and how it connected to the unit. When I was doing television repair years ago, there was a hydraulic repair shop next door. I help them occasionally with electrical problems they encountered so I seen many units. When I left TV repair, I went to work for Grainger ( I have since left there as well ). So I seen much of this type of equipment. If your motor is coupled to the pump via a jaw coupling hub of some type, you might be in luck. Then the other thing you will need to do is figure out what type of motor mount and specs are for your motor and swap it out. Hopefully a good service counter guy at Grainger will help you out with that. I know this sounds like a lot to do, but in the long run you will so much better off.
Now if the motor and pump at built together ( and that could very well be the case with a 12 volt system ), then you have to do something else. The only other things I can think of that will give you the amps is a car battery charger. I know mine has 3 settings on it. 2 amp, 10 amps and 50 amps for starting. so maybe that can help you out.
I am sorry I can't be more helpful, but I been in a different field of work altogether and rarely even think about these things anymore unless it is for personal use.
Amplifier repair - how repairable are Crown CE 1000 and 2000?
I'm looking at a pair of them on eBay and they are described as non-functional, having the fault lights on. I have some experience with older amps like Phase Linear 200, 400, 700 series, SAE stuff from the 70s and Marantz amps of the same vintage but I have never worked on newer amps like the Crown CE series. Are these "throw away" amps or is it worth it to sink a few hundred into these if they are repairable?
Crowns of that vintage are way better than Chinese made Behrengers. I've used their products and they just aren't very well made. New Crowns? That's another story.
Question answered by Sigi H
I have been in that repair/service business for over 30 years. These amps are repairable. I suggest you get a good service manual for them before you start!
Make sure you check every part in the power and driver section and replace any with equal or better rating. To check the power transistors - you have to remove them all out of circuit since they are all in parallel. One bad or leaky transistor will show a short on all of them even if the rest are good. I tell you - for me that was always a sweaty affair...... after having replaced what I could find and then switching it on. If you missed, leave one 2 cent diode in there which is shorted, you may blow the whole thing again.
Never hook up a load when you have replaced all the bad parts - do that later once the amp does not blow any more fuses and/or has no DC offset at any output. That can be trimmed usually. Check the voltage across all the .22Ohm current limiting resistors for each bank of power transistors... these are the ceramic type of 5Watt or so rating. It is advisable to start up the amp with a variac and slowly bring up the line voltage while monitoring the outputs for DC offset.
These amplifiers usually have a speaker disconnect relay built in to protect the speakers from being fried on case you have either the full positive or negative supply rail voltage present due to some short somewhere. Therefore you should measure the output before the relay at the junction between the ceramic current limiting resistors which is the actual output routed to the relay.
It is highly unlikely that both sides are blown. If one is good, make cold comparative measurements with the power off. You may also have to disconnect the B+ and B- from the board to do that.
These amps having the fault light on usually means at least one side has an offset at the output and triggered the disconnect relay to the speakers. Make sure you lift out all the power Xtors one after the other and mark them where they were and check them each out of circuit for any leakages and/or shorts!
I wish you luck!