Where can i sell my second hand professional tools?
I have recently retired and i'm looking to sell my old tools, but they are all professional tools (primarily joinery/carpentry) that are worth alot more than the average ones on ebay, anyone know of a cash generator type place where someone who knows about them will give me a more realistic valuation and selling price?
Question answered by kia
Ask the local lumber supply store if you can put up a notice of what you have to sell. (Not the Home Depot/Lowe's stores)
Do the same at the local 711, as many contractors get their morning coffee in those.
Try craigslist.org and click on the local site near where you live.
Do not accept checks. Repeat.
Look up the price for an almost exact replacement on the manufacturer's website. Truly evaluate the condition of your tools. Excellent to fair.
It is unlikely you would get more than 20-30% of the discounted original value. (Everything is discounted today.)
Take pictures of the tools with a digital camera and upload them on craigslist.org.
Be sure to clean them up before taking pictures.
good luck. I am sure there is someone out there who would just love to have a great set of pro tools.
Enjoy your retirement.
Have you thought of passing on your professional skills to some kids or adults in a community general education program? I'd take that class!
The house we're buying needs the garage roof replaced. What are our options?
It's a double garage, and the roof needs to be secure and waterproof.
We have some joinery skills but haven't done this kind of work before. Do you think that doing it ourselves is a reasonable option? If so, what might be the best/cheapest way to go about it and what might it end up costing in time and money?
What might it cost to have a professional do it?
I know that this house has got a few things wrong with it, and we're bargaining with the seller to get it at a cheap price to reflect this. In the end it's worth buying and we'll still end up having to sort this stuff out when we move in. Hence we want to figure out the best way.
I don't know any technical terms for the type of roof, but it appears to be flat.
I think the survey mentioned felt as well.
Question answered by This Old House
Your options for a flat (or nearly flat) roof are limited. The traditional method is multi-layer assembly of roofing felt and hot-mopped tar. This must be installed professionally. Another option sometimes considered is rolled roofing, a continuous strip of asphalt-roofing similar to asphalt shingles, but I don't think it is a very durable or effective solution. The best solution is a rubber-like product called EPDM. This is what is used on the flat roofs of large factories, so commercial roofers are generally more familiar with it than residential roofers. If you're a seasoned do-it-yourselfer you can put this stuff down but I would highly recommend having it done by a pro because you'll get a warranty from the manufacturer. Here's more on the system:
Building a Flat Roof Right
Want to build my own Sub Box where do I start?
I am looking to Build my own sub woofer box for my 15 inch subwoofers. I have a can easily build a complex box since I have a good deal of craftsmanship so im not shy of complicated designs. But i dont know where to start. Which type of box is better? Where can i get a calculator that calculates the best box dimensions for my subs? Lastly i would like to say that it is for Home audio and maybe for some parties in halls.
Question answered by JAS
The following are a few brief notes on the topic of subwoofer construction that may be of interest to you.
There are several loudspeaker enclosure types that will work for subwoofer applications. By far the most popular are bandpass, vented box, and closed box; in your case I recommend a vented box - perhaps even a sixth-order vented box.
As a result of your intent to build a dual-purpose subwoofer system I recommend that you compromise between sound pressure level and low frequency extension in order to achieve reasonably satisfactory output for small venues such as performance halls. Realistically you should also use no less than four (4) 15-inch low frequency drivers – either all four in one enclosure or one pair per enclosure spread over two separate subwoofer enclosures.
If you’re going to need a portable subwoofer system—especially if you choose to construct the enclosure(s) using medium density fiberboard—be sure to install heavy duty protective corners and use the toughest, most durable industrial-grade finish you can find, e.g. DuPont™ Imron®, Corlar®, etc., or even Rhino Lining (see below.) I also recommend using a router and carbide roundover bit (with no less than a half-inch radius) to put a nice rounded edge all the way around your enclosure. If you expect that you will be transporting your subwoofer enclosures more often than not you may want to give priority to using void-free marine or Baltic birch plywood for your enclosures. Be sure and use plenty of well-placed ‘dadoed’ internal bracing and at least a 1-inch thick baffle.
Spline, lock miter and finger- or box-joint are THE best joinery techniques for relatively conventional, high quality loudspeaker enclosure construction. If you’re unable to use these three joinery methods then I highly recommend using dowels to help align your panels for assembly. Be sure that you always apply the correct amount of adhesive (preferably a two-part epoxy) as recommended by the adhesive manufacturer and use plenty of clamps to create a high strength bondline. I also recommend gluing cleats along all internal enclosure joints; an absolute necessity when using less desirable butt or lap joints.
For additional information, including a fairly extensive list of resources to assist you in your DIY subwoofer project, please read my answer to the following Yahoo! Answers question.
How do you make your own sub woofer cabinet?
Included in my answer to the Y!A question above is a Google Docs resource containing a moderately thorough collection of online and offline software resources and solutions listed under the section titled “Design and Measurement - Software and Hardware” that may be of significant help to you.
############ ADDITIONAL RESOURCES ############
Rhino Lining Applied to Loudspeaker Enclosures
Best software for woodworking/furniture plans?
I'd like to find a software that allows me to make CAD furniture plans to layout my design concepts and instructions, but, I cannot pay a lot of money for it. Any recommendations for the software that would give me the most for my money?
Question answered by Aleph Null
Like Teepee, I recommend SketchUp. However, I can add some useful information that is specific to woodworkers and furniture designers.
Sketchup very easily adapts to woodworking designs... yes, even the free version. It can make detailed 3D renderings that include every traditional or modern woodworking joint. yoou do not have to include joinery tough. You could just design any piece, then worry about how to build it later. Sketchup allows you to import woodgrain textures for most popular species of wood and various degrees of gloss finishes. there are also numerous sketchup models for ancillary materials that furniture designer might want to use: metals, glass, solid-surface, formica, plastics, ,,even bricks concrete and stone.
Because this program is so popular, many users have contributed elements that you can download for free. That means you do not have to draw every element of a design yourself. You can find joints, screws, pocket-hole diagrams, hinges, pulls, latches, drawer-slides, etc. In fact, many manufacturers are now including Sketchup versions of their hardware so you can incorporate it into your projects. You can find simple versions of bookcases, chairs, tables, beds, night-stands, benches & cabinets of every variety. After downloading them, you can modify them to your taste and needs. Once you are familiar with its capabilities, you can design almost anything from the ground up.
Now, there are some convenient added features of the purchased "pro" version of sketchup. However, most woodworkers do not need that for typical "one-off" designs. In fact, you can do fairly sophisticated complex geometry if you know some tricks.
For instance, you can go to woodgears.ca, a website by Matthias Wandell, to see how he cleverly works-around several problems when creating a 3D model of a reindeer. He even has a video on YouTube that explains how he does this with sketchup, then you can see him bandsaw the reindeer. Search for, "Matthias Wandell, bandsaw reindeer / sketchup."
As with most CAD programs, there are a few protocols to learn. Specific to woodworking designs, I recommend that you make each component of your design a separate element. That makes it much easier to modify parts and alter designs.
Fine woodworking, popular woodworking and wood magazine ALL have articles on sketchup for woodworkers now, and there are many free online tutorials specially geared toward woodworking applications of sketchup.
Because you can get a free version, that solves your budget problem. If you work with it a while and decide you like it, you can pay for the pro version later. In the meantime, you will find more free resources and training for SketchUp than any other cad program I know of, and I know basic sketchup is good for most woodworkers, even the free version.
Because of the way sketchup works, you do not need to buy any specialized computer-drafting peripherals such as an E-pencil, electronic pad or touch screen. You can just use the mouse and control commands from your keyboard. That saves money too, since most dedicated CAD programs require those peripherals to operate efficiently. Sketchup is a low-impact, efficiently written code. that means it doesn't eat RAM or crash your computer like more elaborate programs tend to do. It doesn't matter how cheap the program is if you need a four thousand dollar machine and two grand worth of toys to make it work. You won't have that problem with SketchUp.
Sketchup will allow you to import and modify existing models of room environments... even whole cities! You can design your original furniture, then see how it will look in an office, home, submarine or spaceship!
And it's easy to learn.
I have been a woodworker all my life, most of 60 years now. If an old-fart like me can use sketchup, I bet you can too.
I'm looking for Furniture Design Software that has added features.?
Does anyone know of a furniture design program that not only lets you design the furniture but also lets you choose joinery options, adding doors and drawers. Also maybe one that can create a materials list and cut sheet print outs.
Maybe something like this hasn't been developed yet.....but I would appreciate if someone could point me in the right direction especially if you have used the program personally.....thank you.
Question answered by David V
I've been looking for similar software for quite a while and haven't located any myself that is made just for furniture design. I began using photoshop. I'd find a photo of a buffet table or some other piece of furniture that I want to build and use it as a template in photoshop and I'd use the ruler and grid functions and enlarge the photo to the size (in scale) of the piece that I was building and go from there. I taught myself some of the easier cad programs and use that to build and design my furniture from scratch now. CAD programs are pretty much what all of the furniture manufacturers use because outside of cabinet making, which there is software for that, nothing else really has templates that you can follow. However, if you get into CAD design and join some of the forums for furniture design then I'm sure you'll be able to find some pieces that others are willing to share. Another nice thing about learning CAD design is it opens up other things such as; I bought a CNC machine (2' x 4') on eBay that lets me build a lot of custom designed pieces myself and it does an amazing job at carving intricate patterns into some of my furniture. If you're curious about the CNC machine I put a link in it to the 2' x 2'. Any questions you can contact me at: david at 221inc dot com .
service tax liability on road works such as improvements, maintenance,special repairs for AP & Central Govt.?
we are in the business of road works for the past ten years. we pay VAt under APVAT Act under the category of works contract. Are we liable to pay service tax for the above works. If liable, under what service head? How does Management, maintenance and repairs service head, in particular effect us?
please answer keeping in mind that roads come under immovable property.
Question answered by taxpert
The following are the definitions under the Finance Act
“commercial or industrial construction service” means —
(a)construction of a new building or a civil structure or a part thereof; or
(b)construction of pipeline or conduit; or
(c)completion and finishing services such as glazing, plastering, painting, floor and wall tiling, wall covering and wall papering, wood and metal joinery and carpentry, fencing and railing, construction of swimming pools, acoustic applications or fittings and other similar services, in relation to building or civil structure; or
(d)repair, alteration, renovation or restoration of, or similar services in relation to, building or civil structure, pipeline or conduit,
which is —
(i)used, or to be used, primarily for; or
(ii)occupied, or to be occupied, primarily with; or
(iii)engaged, or to be engaged, primarily in,
commerce or industry, or work intended for commerce or industry, but does not include such services provided in respect of roads, airports, railways, transport terminals, bridges, tunnels and dams
(64) “management, maintenance or repair” means any service provided by—
(i) any person under a contract or an agreement; or
(ii) a manufacturer or any person authorised by him,
in relation to,—
(a) management of properties, whether immovable or not;
(b) maintenance or repair of properties, whether immovable or not; or
(c) maintenance or repair including reconditioning or restoration, or servicing of any goods, excluding a motor vehicle;
Explanation.—For the removal of doubts, it is hereby declared that for the purposes of this clause, “goods” includes computer software; (vide Finance Act 2007)
In view of above definitions you are not liable to service tax
Munster Joinery or Senator windows.?
Does anyone ave experience of windows from above manufacturers? Is 1.2 a good U value? What should I look out for when buying PVC windows. House is in Ireland (very harsh weather!)
Question answered by Rat Catcher
John; I'm in Co. Leitrim and had Munster Joinery sort out my entire cottages many windows, as well as installing two doors. They were recommended to me by a friend. Now, I'd be more than happy to recommend them to you.
Let's face it; Buying double glazing can be perilous. I've seen some awful jobs done by lesser outfits. I can't speak for Senator. But, Munster are Really good. Speak to their area sales rep. Lisa was mine. Good as gold. No hard sell tactics at all. Their brochure will answer any technical queries for ye.
Harsh weather? LOL! Tell me about it! :D
Stanley or Bernhardt Furniture...Which is better? ?
Question answered by eskie lover
Hands down, Bernhardt is considered fine furnishings while Stanely makes quality middle of the road case and upholstered goods. Bernhardt was founded in the late 1800's and is still one of the oldest family owned fine furniture manufacturers in the United States. I've had the pleasure of visiting their North Carolina factory to see how they make their furniture and they really do use fine components, joinery, textiles and construction though they do also offer a mid-priced line which is also manufactured with quality in mind.
Who makes the washing machine Lamona?
Question answered by Huge
These appliances are exclusive to the joinery company Howdens and some sites say they are UK supplied. As to which company manufactures them as I understand it they are only badged as `Lamona' and are made by one or more manufacturers who work to the specification supplied - it could be Beko, Indesit or another that actually builds them. If you search on the internet there are other people asking the same question but few leads. This is not unusual in the appliance market because many of the `brands' are actually made by a few big players like Siemans (Siemans Bosch, Neff) and Electrolux (AEG, Zanussi, Electrolux). If you look at the insides of the common makes you can actually see that they are built from virtually the same components just with a different finish and extras .
can you tell me the properties of '' marine board '' ?
Question answered by Girly Brains
Pretty much all plywoods normally available from regular timber suppliers are weather-boilproof (WBP) nowadays. It just means that the adhesive is to this specific standard - one which can stand a test of boiling in water for 72 hours without failing.
There isn't really any such thing as 'regular' plywood other than this, nowadays: WBP is the 'new' regular. If you can still call this new.
Not to be confused with so-called 'exterior grade' or 'shuttering' plywood. Which, while still laminated using WBP adhesives, is of very inferior timber quality and grain. It is suitable for sheds or as the name implies, boarding up derelict sites. This certainly can warp and even crack, due to the poor timber quality and often inadequate seasoning. And interior voids. And it is often warped already. But correspondingly, very low priced.
Marine plywood ("marine board"), if this is what you are asking about, is a higher grade WBP sheet material which conforms to BS 1088, and so must not only meet the very same adhesive test, but in addition, the laminates (exterior and interior) must all be of an equal thickness as well as being of a timber that is specified as 'very durable' (can stand being placed in the ground for 25 years before decay).
Marine plywood is extremely expensive by comparison and very often way over-spec if you want a cheaper but perfectly adequate alternative. It typically starts at about twice the price of regular WBP and from there on the sky's the limit, depending on what the interior and more importantly, the exterior timber specified might be. A lot of these more exotic and very expensive boards are made to customer order by highly specialised companies such as Bruynzeel. Often for the fit-out on just one vessel.
Normally use marine plywood for particularly vulnerable areas, or where you want a more decorative, brightwork, finish - such as transom and wheelhouse coachroof (for examples of each).
Use regular joinery-standard weather-boilproof (WBP) plywood from a good manufacturer so as to ensure a good quality board. It will have an external veneer of fair to very good quality which can be stained and varnished if desired. (Douglas-fir, okoume, etc).
As for any modern timber boat, whatever finishing system you use, it is best applied after sealing all the timber first with epoxy resin. But not essential.