Chat rooms where you can talk anonymously to many people at once?
I don't care if there are usernames; that would actually be preferred. I don't want a site like Omegle, where you can only talk to one person at a time. If it had multiple chat rooms with different topics (i.e. teenagers, singles, etc.) that would be awesome, but not a must. Thanks in advance! :)
That One Girl
Question answered by Marwan
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Chatterous is a service that lets you talk to your friends across the web, IM, email and your phone.
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miimr.com is a social place where you can chat publicly with other people, about the topics that interests you, such as movies, places, famous actors, and much more.
FriendCameo is a fun and safe Facebook voice and video chat application. It lets you talk face-to-face with friends, family and colleagues. Invite friends to join FriendCameo and you can chat with them for as long as you like, wherever they are, for free. FriendCameo video calls are the next best thing to being there in person. Well, almost.
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Would you trust these 'van sellers' asking to utilise eBay's Purchase Protection in the transaction?
The van I'm selling is in excellent condition, no damage, no engine problems, garage kept, HPI clear (no finance,no accidents) and it will come with all the needed documents!
I am selling this van for £2,000.00 including delivery anywhere in UK. I've listed a "very, very low" price to guarantee a sale. The only reason for the low price is that I need cash for a family emergency. I also have to tell you that I'm currently out of town with some major problems so pick up/view isn't an option right now. However, before any delivery can be done I want to be sure that we do this transaction in the safest mode possible for both of us. I recommend we do the transaction using eBay.co.uk because it's a reliable market place and I'm a very experienced seller there. eBay will act as a 3rd party between us to create confidence; this way you'll have a chance to VIEW AND TEST the van BEFORE any money will be given to me; If you want to buy this van email me back with your full name and address for delivery to start the official procedure on eBay. Once the requested details will be provided, eBay will contact you with ALL the info regarding delivery, purchase protection, and refund policy so please provide your details before any other questions. You will find 90% of answers in the info eBay will send you. Will wait to hear from you. Thank you,
('Buyer'): Ok, please send me pictures. If you have any other vans for sale aswell I'd be interested to see too as I have 2 friends looking for something similar. Links are good. Many thanks,
Hello, I've attached more pics of the van to this email...
If you think we can do a deal, please email me back with your full name and address for delivery so I can start the transaction on eBay. Will wait your email. Thank you.
Ok, thanks Stephen. Do you have a phone number I can contact you on. Regards
I tried to call you but I have a problem with my telephone line in my house - there seems to be a "static" sort of noise or interference on my line. I have done all the usual checks and know the line coming into the house is OK, as i have plugged a phone into the master socket and the line is clear. Is causing havoc with my broadband connection, the connection keeps dropping.
Our transaction will be covered by eBay's Purchase Protection program , which protects you against description errors, damages or if the van is not delivered to you. We will start the transaction on eBay and you will receive all the instructions and details about our transaction.
An eBay agent will deliver the van to you. Should the van not be exactly as described, you can reject it, and get a full refund from the eBay.
We can start the eBay transaction with no obligation to buy.
Let me know your details (full name and delivery address).
Let me know if we can do a deal as I told you.
Ok, thanks Stephen, I understand. What's your ebay id so I can send you the money. Many thanks
Seller#2 (Buyer asks for phone number)
Hi there, Unfortunately, I am not able to use the phone, as I'm wearing a hearing device (sound signal amp) as a result of a car crash I've experienced a couple of months ago. Let's not waste time and get to work. The price is 2300 pounds, wedding next month forces low price sale.The van is in very good conditions! I am a consultant engineer so I spend most of my time doing field work therefore I am offering a 5 days refund and return policy. Can arrange pick up or delivery. Kindly reply in a timely manner with your full name,eBay ID,and address (for the delivery purposes) if you want to buy it now and secure the deal through eBay.
(Buyer Q's tax/mot phone call from other person for viewing...)
Hi --,He got tax on for 2 months more,mot expire in 20/08/2010,FSH.
I'm out of town and you can't pick up/view the van... Sorry... That's why I'm offering free delivery and a refund policy... I don't know how many sellers on eBay offer buyers a refund policy, let's not forget the free delivery. The transaction will take place on eBay and you will be offered free eBay Vehicle Purchase Protection so your money will be safe. So, if you think we can do a deal, please email me back with your your full name, address and ebay id so I can start the transaction on eBay. Will wait your email. Thank you.
So, would you trust either of these sellers based on this kind of correspondence?
Ok, I'm not dumb - this question is somewhat rhetorical and sure there's plenty other Q/A's like this. But you know what - more the better. If some poor sod can find the answer quicker than fall for these scams then terrific! ... See what happens later when someone searches 'eBay's Purchase Protection'. Give it a week...
Also, replies above are me playing along. I figure if I can waste their time, kinda like chattin to a traffic warden ;)
Question answered by xx_satanic_mechanic_xx
You are in the midst of a scam.
The car was not on EBay, but on Craigslist, AutoTrader or some other classified website.
the car was priced well below others of the same yr/make/model
The owner is out of the country - or at least across country from you
There is a long story about why it is so cheap (job transfer, divorce, dead uncle).
He is offering to ship the car for free
You will use "EBay Protection Service" to conduct the transaction so that you are "safe"
You will transfer money to this bullshit eBay agent
They hold the money until the car gets there.
You have 3/5/10/14 days to inspect it.
If you accept the car, notify the Agent and he releases money to the seller
If you refuse the car you get all the money back
If you refuse the car, the seller will pay for return shipping.
read this forum. Look at how many times this is asked and answered.
Ebay NEVER handles money
They also have a payment center - PayPal that handles all eBay transactions. Why would eBay want a wire transfer when they own a processing service?
You have to use your head.
Car not starting.Is it time for a new battery?
My car battery has been ok.It came with my new camry 2004 model.I think I must have left the little lights on (below the headlights ) & after 3 hrs the car wouldn't start.I then did a jump start with my friends's car & drove for about 5 miles.After I turned of the engine it refused to start.I also can't shift gears to neutral in order to move the car.Is it time to change the car's battery?
Planing to call AAA to jump start first thing in the morning.But I'm running out of gas too.I would need to take the car to toyota to work on it but need to fill up gas on the way.Is it okay to fill up gas without turning off the engine?
AAA replaces battery's too but I'm not sure if there should be any other problem.How much can I pay for a new battery?
Lotsa questions but I would sure appreciate some answers.The main one being,do I need to go for a new battery?
God is awesome
Question answered by helpful bob
Well I'd desiring to have the battery tested and trying to charge it fully before deciding on any new battery purchase.Second is really it isn't good for you to pump gas while engine is running but I've known a few ppl that have done so including myself.Most important thing is to keep a solid ground position when pumping the fuel regardless if the car is off you idling a hand should be touching metal on the vehicle and the other pumping the fuel into the tank.Whats more dangerous really is having you car give off a static charge or your cell phone ringing even cam cause issues thats another reason to ground your body before pumping the fuel.
One thing you could do is see once the vehicle is boosted and driven a bit if the lights or dash or it's electrical system seem to be acting up that might suggest that the voltage regulator or alternator isn't working properly but if you can start it up and all the lights etc seem normal pretty once its running then more then likely the alternator or voltage regulator is fine it's just a weak battery or weak connection in the charging system etc.
I'd be checking the alternator belt on it and any belts to see if any are loose , plus check the battery terminals to see if their tight and clean too.
I prefer to carry a portable booster that way you can simply give you car a boost if needed yourself sometimes they run as low as 20 to 30 bucks and are well worth the invest if a good quality product.Another thing you could do is request gas be brought to you by AAA when they come to boost the vehicle.Some consider both a service the bringing of gas then the boost but I don't know exactly how AAA runs it service contracts.
If under warranty or is affecting the warranty that you must use Toyota I'd use their services otherwise just drive to any reliable mechanic or shop that sells automotive batteries and ask for a free charging system check and estimate.
Due to the age of that vehicle it could be rust or corrision in the charging systems connections or simply a weak or dead cell battery.I say the battery is probably the first thing I'd look at or a belt or charging system is the cause here and more then likely bec you can drive it once boosted the alternator must be giving out power but is it enough or is the battery not able to hold a charge for long at all bec of dead cells.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way you can ask AAA to check for loose connections etc on the battery or a loose belt but really these are all things they should just naturally look at before boosting anyways.
What I recommend is Interstate battery's and I bet that vehicle of yours would run well with at least a 750 to 850 or more cold amp rated battery.If you can bet a double post battery do it their great if you need a boost or to give boosts or if you ever wish to install it in your next vehicle etc.Heres a link to the company by the way Interstate is what some of the top racing cars in the world use.Just look up your area to find a local sales agent and most outlets will also test your charging system for you too.
Certified Preowned Honda with aftermarket parts already installed?
I bought a certified preowned 05 Accord 2 months ago yesterday. Along with the preowned certification, I also paid for the Honda Care extra coverage. The car has an aftermarket alarm, aftermarket headlights and a body kit. I bought a radio and had it professionally installed. The installer told me that whoever had it before had already run the cabling for an amp and replaced the speakers, so I was like cool. 3 out of the last 5 mornings and the batery wouldn't start. I tested the battery and the battery is fine, so I brought it to the dealer.
My question is if any of the problems are a result of the aftermarket equipment, will I be covered? Should I raise hell with the dealer?
I tested the battery, and that was fine. I was thinking the alternator as well, however my concern is if the dealer says that it is the alternator or another electrical issue, they will say that it isn't covered because the aftermarket parts contributed to the problem.
When I would try to start the car, it would sometimes click, and sometimes do nothing. The second time it happened, the battery was so dead that the power locks didn't work.
Hope that's a little bit more clear
Turns out the alarm was "parasitic". It was drawing excessive power. When they disconnected it, no more power draws above normal with a full start or in acc
I took it up with the salesman, not service, because I know they have no control over what a salesman told me, they just know it's broken and they figure out why and charge what they're told. It just angered me because it was "honda certified preowned" and this should have been detected during certification process, as electrical, alternator and battery are included. Also, this is the second time i've been there for an issue that should have been caught through certification. The first time was 2 days after I bought it and it was bad brake pads.
In the end the issue was fixed, I now have the factory alarm, and although they tried to charge me, with persistence with my salesman (who is now a manager) I was able to get the fee waved, and a full electric checkup.
Thanks for the answers.
Question answered by billh
You state that you "tested the battery". What exactly does that mean? Unfortunately, for a lot of people testing the battery means going out with a voltmeter, and measuring the battery voltage with no-load on the battery, and the engine not running. The assumption is then made that anything above 12 V means that the battery is fine. This is, needless to say, not accurate. Certainly a battery does need to produce a voltage, but it needs to maintain that voltage even under a fairly high current flow such as cranking the engine over. Just for the sake of accuracy, of course your battery wouldn't start three out of the last five mornings because batteries don't start or run, they are simply energy storage devices used to crank and start the engine in the morning. I'm assuming that what you mean is the vehicle/engine didn't start three out of the last five mornings and you are suspecting that the battery is the cause. I think it's very likely that one of the aftermarket devices on your vehicle is putting a parasitic load on the battery overnight and causing it to discharge. Parasitic load problems can be miserable to try to track down especially if there are aftermarket devices on the vehicle such as alarm system, remote starter, etc, audio systems. It is difficult to say whether or not the warranty that you bought will cover these items (but it is doubtful. When a dealer decides what extended/used car warranty to offer they do so based on how much money they will make on each warranty sold. They don't care if it is good coverage or not, and the buyer almost never reads all the fine print which comes with extended warranties as every used car warranty is different regarding what they do and do not cover. As regards "raising hell with the dealer" I would refrain from that in the same fashion I would refrain from giving crap to a waiter/waitress who is serving you at a restaurant. It rarely helps, And I have seen 1 Guy I worked with who was given major grief by a customer for something totally outside his control. once the customer had gone away, he went over to his lunchbox, split his tuna sandwich in half and put 1/2 under the rear seat. Realize that the service department in a typical dealership has no input on the extended warranties that the sales department chooses to offer to the customers.By the time an issue arises the sales slug has long ago spent his commission check, and he expects serice to just take care of it, at a financial loss if they have to. In addition the service department is forced to work on systems that they have had absolutely no training in, such as aftermarket alarm systems, aftermarket sound systems and remote starter's. You do the best you can but when someone else has messed around with something it makes diagnosis and repair a bit more complicated. One thing that would be very nice to know is; on the three out of five days that the vehicle would not start, what did happen when you tried to start the engine in the morning. Was there a clicking, did the engine crank but fail to start?
For your sake, and for the sake of many that I see on this subject of cars not starting I'm going to go over the high points of starting/charging/battery.
In order for a car engine to start in the morning the engine is equipped with a starter. The starter is an electric motor which has a movable gear. When the key is turned an electromagnet on the starter causes this movable gear to engage with a larger gear on the flex plate (automatic transmission), or the flywheel (manual transmission). When this year has engaged an electrical connection is made between the battery cable and the starter causing the electric starter motor to crank the engine. While the engine as cranking fuel should be delivered to the engine either by the carburetor (older cars) or by the fuel injectors. Also spark should be supplied to the spark plugs by means of the ignition system. If the battery doesn't have sufficient charge to do this you will typically noticed this as a slow cranking speed, or sometimes just a clicking sound when you turn the key. If you hear neither cranking, nor clicking it suggests that the battery is completely dead, or there is something preventing the starter control circuit from engaging the starter. For instance, if the vehicle is in drive then there's a switch which will prevent power from going to the starter to engage it.
Now, this is assuming that the battery is fully charged, and internally is normal. The battery is charged by the alternator during the time that the engine is running. The alternator does this by producing a voltage usually above 14.7. The normal resting battery voltage for a car is 12.6. The slightly higher voltage produced by the alternator allows around to flow "backwards" through the battery which charges it. There is a voltage regulator on the alternator which prevents overcharging. So, let's say that you are taking a 200 mile drive. During this 200 miles the battery is fully charged by the alternator, and during the bulk of your drive the electrical means of the vehicle such as the fuel pump, a ignition system, fuel injectors, lights are all being electrically powered by the alternator. Let's say that you arrive at your destination 200 miles away and you park the car, and you go inside to sleep for the night. Unfortunately it was nighttime when you arrived and you left the headlights on. You sleep soundly throughout the night as the headlights are slowly drawing power from the battery. You go out the next morning, the headlights aren't on because the battery is now dead, but when you tried to start the car it will start. You may get absolutely nothing, or you may get a clicking sound. If you are able to jump start the car and goal for a long drive, or if you are able to put a battery charger on the battery for a few hours then the vehicle will start and run perfectly well. However, you will never figure out what happened unless you happen to notice that when you put the jumper cables on the vehicle headlights came on.
The headlight example is an easy one because of how frequently happens however there are a number of things that can place a load on the battery overnight causing it to be dead next morning. Some of the common ones are the glove compartment light, the trunk light, poorly installed aftermarket components such as remote starter's, alarm systems, lighting systems which don't automatically lose power when the ignition is turned to the off position, and aftermarket audio systems
The common, quick and dirty method I use for a no start condition is 1: check the battery voltage first. If the battery voltage with nothing on, and nothing running is less than 12 volts then the battery is currently under charged. It's also possible that the battery is no good but the best battery in the world which is under charge is still not going to get the job done. Now, if the battery has 12 volts for more showing on the voltmeter then the next thing I do is tried to crank/start the vehicle with the voltmeter still attached to the battery. If the voltage drops significantly then it suggests that the battery is either completely dead, or internally malfunctioning. At that point you need to determine how much current the battery is producing when an attempt at starting the engine is done. The only way to do this is with an ammeter. This is usually not available to the average layman. You are voltmeter may have the ability to measure amperage but only in the very low range, not the 75-200 amp range that the starter typically works in.
so, to rehash: measure the battery voltage with the vehicle just sitting there. If the voltage is less than 12 holds the battery is currently dead or internally malfunctioning and most certainly needs charging at the very least. At that point the first thing to do is charge the battery for a few hours. Once the battery has been charged an attempt at starting the vehicle should be made with the voltmeter still attached to the battery (watched the leads on the voltmeter as I have seen many of them eaten by the belt once the engine does start. If the engine does start once the battery has been charged it argues very strongly that there is something which is depleting the battery overnight such as some type of accessory been left on, or some aftermarket part which was either improperly installed, or malfunctioning after it was installed.
By the way, I would expect that you will need to charge or battery, or jumpstart this vehicle. Either way when you first put the charger on, or when you first put the jumper cables on, before you do anything else walk around the vehicle see if there are any lights on see if there is anything which started working which shouldn't be working such as sounds as the sound system, etc. Open the trunk and check to make sure that the trunk light doesn't stay on when you close the trunk, likewise with the glove compartment, and also some vehicles have Underhood lights which can deplete the battery overnight. Hopefully the dealership will be able to help you out however I remember problems like this been a major pain in the backside. You typically can't find any wiring diagram for aftermarket components and you are forced to guess most of the time at which wire goes where.
the common syndromes are:
1) if the battery is no good, usually the car will start when jump started by another vehicle, but an overnight charge will not allow the vehicle to start the next morning
2: if the starter is no good, then the engine will not crank regardless of whether the battery is fully charged or if you are being jump started.
3: if the alternator is no good, you can jump start the engine and it will run but the battery will not charge as the engine is running. So, you
Should i buy this car at this price. ?
im looking into buying this car and have no idea how much all the extra add on to the car below is the add he place. The car also has an r title.. kbb say the reatail is 1825 and they are selling it for 3295 i really dont know what all the extras add on so if you could let me know how much that will add to the car.. and your thoughts if i should buy it..... thanks
1997 Chevy Cavalier. It is an automatic with ~97,100 miles on it. It has a Honda Ralleye Red paint job. It is in very good condition, I am only selling it because I just bought a new truck. It shows normal signs of wear, but there have never been any engine or transmission problems, or any problems for that matter. The car has projector headlights, euro tail lights, headlight covers, neon interior lights, strobe lights in bumper, hood scoop, custom painted dash and center console (red and silver), it has 15" American Racing rims, and 20% tint all around except rear window. The MAIN PART of the car is the Stereo System: I have 2 12"w3v2 JL Audio Subwoofers in a Powerwedge JL Audio box (quality of a sealed box with the bass of a ported box), Alpine CDA-9827 CD Player, a Crossfire VR602 2-channel amp and VR-352 4-channel amp, 5.25" JL Audio Door Speakers, and Pioneer 6x9 Rear Deck Speakers. This system won 2nd place at a show with 147.2dB (louder than a jet engine). I also have a set of winter wheels and tires which I'll add for an extra $100. The wheels only have one season under them.
Question answered by Ansrgeek
One of the keys to pricing a car is to effectively rate the car as the price will vary widely based on condition and mileage. Mileage is pretty obvious. You should base condition on a Carfax report (which would also help catch any odometer fraud) and your own review. Before you buy your final step should be an inspection by a qualified mechanic - but that's too expensive to do on every car you look at.
There are a bunch of places to check car prices on the Internet. NADA guides is one - but since they are owned by the car dealers association I never recommend them. KBB is another. Driverside.com is a new site and they have a couple of extras - great data showing price based on mileage; DriverSide Estimate where they search actual listings to find what cars are actually selling for in local markets; and estimates for trade in pricing.
Also take a look a the DriverSide cost of ownership - service, gas, insurance and even depreciation to see how the price will drop over time. I find that most folks look at the one time sales price - not the ongoing costs which continue long after you buy your car.
options on 2000 Grand Prix VIN 1G2WK52J3YF301804?
Question answered by jenn
I work for GM. Here are your option codes for that car. Also, you have an open recall on it, for the seat belt buckel. Recall #00067.
AAA - STANDARD EQUIPMENT PROCESSING OPTION AG1 - POWER SEAT, DRIVER 6-WAY
AK5 - DUAL FRONTAL AIR BAGS AP9 - CARGO NET
AR9 AT5 - REAR CENTER FOLDING SEAT
A90 - DECK LID RELEASE, POWER REMOTE BZ7 - VEHICLE GM PROD WEEK 16
C60 - AIR CONDITIONING, CUSTOM DG7 - DUAL REMOTE CONTROL MIRRORS
DL5 - DECAL ROADSIDE SERVICE D81 - SPOILER-REAR DECK LID
FAI FE1 - SUSPENSION SYSTEM, SOFT
FLT - FLT-FLEET ORDERS F83 - AXLE RATIO 3.05
IPB - TRIM INTERIOR DESIGN JL9 - BRAKES, POWER ANTI-LOCK
KCV - FLT-ALAMO RENT A CAR K34 - CRUISE CONTROL, RESUME SPEED
K68 - GENERATOR 105 AMP LG8 - 3.1 LITER 3100 SFI V-6 ENGINE
MX0 - TRANSMISSION, 4-SPEED AUTOMATIC M15
NC1 - CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS LEV N36 - STEERING WHEEL,4-SPOKE SPORT
QD1 - WHEELS, 16" 5-SPOKE ALUMINUM SILVER PAINTED QNX - P225/60R16 BSW STL TOURING
R6U - CREDIT IN LIEU OF FUEL R7K - CONTROL-SALES ITEM #36
UH8 - CLUSTER-COOL TEMP,TRIP ODOM, TACH UW6 - 6-SPEAKER SOUND SYSTEM
U1C - RADIO, AM/FM STEREO W/ COMPACT DISC PLAYER, SEEK/SCAN, 6-SPEAKER SOUND SYSTEM AND REAR WINDOW ANTENNA (REPLACES STD/OPT PKG RADIO) U77 - REAR WINDOW ANTENNA
VG6 - BUMPER STD IMPACT 5.0 MPR CALIF VG8 - VEHICLE LABEL-NOTICE TO BUYER
VN9 - FLT-NATIONAL DLY RENT/100% REP V73 - VEHICLE CERTIFICATION U.S.
YF5 - CALIFORNIA EMISSIONS YT1
Z7W 1SB - OPTION GROUP 1SB
1SZ - VALUE GROUP SAVINGS 12B - TRIM, GRAPHITE CLOTH
12I - TRIM, GRAPHITE 15P - WHEEL COLOR-SILVER
17U 6JS - COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUT SEL SUS
7JS - COMPONENT FRT RH COMPUT SEL SUS 8FY - COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUT SEL SUS
9FY - COMPONENT FRT LH COMPUT SEL SUS