What do most people do when they run into electrical problems when remodeling?
When people do their own remodeling, such as a kitchen, many will do their own demolition work, then have plans to install new cabinets and appliances. At some time or another, they will run into electrical issues, such as finding live wires that shouldn't be live, or existing outlets/switches being in the wrong place for the new kitchen design. What do most people do in this situation? Do they ever try to fix the problems themselves?
Question answered by Eddie B
I am in South Carolina and it is legal to do electrical work in your own home or on your property. The only exclusion I have found is having electricity hooked up to new service. For new service (a new meter base) a licensed electrician is required.
If you are comfortable with the fix AND understand how electricity works then I would go for it. Use a fluke or meter and make sure you know the proper way to use the tool. They come with basic instructions. I find a voltmeter, amp meter and continuity check allows me to check my work before and after the job. If you do not understand how electricity works then get help.
I have used a website to ask "experts" electrical answers to specific problems. There is a minor fee for the answer. If you are not satisfied with the answer or the answer is not real then you do not have to pay the person providing the answer. The qualifications and rating of the "experts" are also listed.
I recently used one of their experts to help guide me on hooking up a portable generator to my house. They also helped me meet the code requirements.
Electricity is not really "rocket science" and a good basic book and understanding goes along way. Make sure you check to make sure you also meet the local/state/federal codes.
I just happen to have a copy of the codes (big notebook) and my local library keeps a copy up to date. I personally do my own electrical work and have friends that are licensed electricians. They help me with the codes.
Use a licensed electrical contractor if you have doubts. Be sure and get work you want done in writing before the work is started.
What does it mean to an electrical meter 'spoted'?
The electrician I'm thinking of hiring said I will need to get the meter spotted by the electrical company before work can begin or sometimes ever before a permit will be issued. I'm replacing an old Kinsco 100 amp panel with a new 100 amp panel that follows today electrical code guidelines and safety requirements.
I just need to know what spotting a meter means....before I go ahead and have an electrician do the work.
Question answered by Comp-Elect
I have never heard the term Spotting an Electric Meter but it sounds a lot like getting the Electric Utility Company to give you a Meter Location.
In many areas it is necessary to have a Meter Location by the Electric Utility Company which supplies the electricity to the property must be obtained before any permits are issued to upgrade or change your Electric Service. Most Electric Utility Companies have regulations as to where the Electric Meter can be located.
When you contact the Electric Utility Company and ask them for a Meter Location (Spotting); they will send someone out to check your building (house) and let you know where the Electric Meter is to be located. They usually leave you a drawing with the service technician signature.
Read the following if you have not positively decided on that electrician:
1/ Look up local contractors first. work out from the closest to your location. If someone you trust has had work done
similar to yours, ask them about the contractor they used. If they were completely satisfied with their
contractor(s), ask for their telephone number.
2/ Select at least 5 your are interested
3/ Do a google/yahoo search on each of the contractors you are interested in; look for praises (check who is writing the praises to see if they have any connection to
the contractor <scam artists and coffident persons often work in groups> google/yahoo search the people giving the praise or references)
4/ When you are satisfied with at least 3 contractors per job, have them give you written estimates with details of work
to be done, terms, guarantee(s), cost of extras (how much do they charge if they find something not covered by the contract), paymant schedules if necessary and
whatever else you can think of to protect yourself.
5/ If the contractor tries to pressure you into signing the contract immediately with a high deposit (more than 15% - deposits over 10% normally are not paid untill material is delivered and left at your site) reject that contractor. Be careful, high pressure can be someone who sounds very convincing, but has
many reasons why you should sign on the dotted line NOW.
6/ It is always good to have another adult with you when a contractor inspects the work to be done.
7/ If you do not get at least 3 written estimates signed by the contractor - not you (do not sign yet) , go back to 1. repeat until you get written estimates signed by the contractor - not you (do not sign yet).
Read the estimates over with some who has some knowledge of the work that has to be done.
This may take longer than you thought; do not rush into it. Research, resaerch research, helps.
When you are ready choose by being informed.
Is it OK to plug in a microwave and a refridgerator into the same 20 amp 120 volt outlet?
An electrician at home depot told me not to plug in a Microwave and a Refridgerator into the same circuit is this true?
Question answered by Pat
Is it safe yes !!! if the house is wired properly they wil just blow the circuit depending on the size of the microwave... A microwave should be a dedicated circuit and nothing else should plug in to that circuit. The NEC states that the refrigerator can be on with the other two kitchen circuits we always put fridges and freezers on their own circuits as well for the convenience of the home owner. So yes the man did tell you the right thing
Electrical Contractor |><|
Who do I call to install a electric vehicle charging station at my house?
I am assuming you need a certified electrician to do this. Can anyone refer someone who is experienced in this type of installation and can do it at a good price in the chicagoland area.
Question answered by Breath on the Wind
NEC (national electrical code) now covers in all 50 states but it has not been adopted evenly.1 Codes where you live may vary. What is required for a Type II charger is a 40 amp 220/240 line (#8 wires) The anticipated continuous current draw is 32 amps.(2) It will probably have to be dedicated to this one outlet and it may have to also be on a GFCI breaker.
There are a number of companies that make the charging unit which has the SAE J1772 plug on its end.3 The units are essentially adapters as the actual charging unit (which is converting AC power to DC power for the batteries) is in the car. The J1772 plug standard is going to be the US configuration for all new electric cars.
Your expense is going to be dependent upon the situation in your home. It will be cheapest if the distribution panel (breaker box) is next to where you want the charging unit and there is nothing in the way. You can expect to also be paying for permits and an inspection of the work by the city or town (in some places this requirement is being somewhat abbreviated.)
Finding an electrician is going to be like finding any contractor. You may want several estimates. For references you could ask your local town electrical inspector. There are online companies like Service magic: http://www.servicemagic.com/ You might inquire at a local electrical supply store. Any place that has business cards on a board (Hardware store, food mart, electrical supply shop) will probably include an electrician or two and then there is your local yellow pages.
Does installing an electrical subpanel off of an existing subpanel in north hollywood CA require a city permit?
We want to install a 40 amp sub panel off of an existing panel and got a bid from a very respectfull contractor . However he did not bring up whether or not a permit is necessary. Is it necessary?
Question answered by gotAnswer
Permit is not necessary not unless you want too.Albit, in every city want you to have a permit and a license electrician for every little-thing you adds up in your house.So, it's up to you to decide.First of all that's only a minor job and the only thing you can do is to make it sure it was install properly.Just simple as like that.
Is it possible to get 2 20 amp circuits out of 12/2 wire?
An electrician friend of mine told me I could get 2 20 amp circuits out of 12/2 wire. Is this possible and if so what do I need to know to get it done.
Question answered by Pat
NO !!!! Plain and simple you cannot get 2 single 20 amp circuits with a piece of 12/ 2.
You can get a 240 circuit with 12/2 (because 240 does not need a neutral wire) 120/240 does but this is not your question here.
You can run a new circuit with 12/2 and then of course get another 20 amp circuit or if your circuit is wired with 12/3 w/ gr then yes you can get 2 single 20 amp circuits it is done every day, and it is code as well be cause you have 2 120 volt circuits a neutral (which can be shared by code) and a ground.
Electrical Contractor |><|
How practical would it be to run a 220v line from the basement breaker box to the second floor (for a dryer)?
I have a pretty easy path through the wall but would still be looking at 50 feet or so of 220v cable... is this practical. I would have an electritian hook it up but I just want to know if this is even possible.
Question answered by wiredguy1
first of all. as an electrical contractor, most electric dryers need 240 volt 30 amp. 1 10 guage wire is needed for this. all new dryers need a 4 wire outlet. so pick up 10-3 with ground. if you measure it to 50 feet do yourself a favor and buy 60. you would rather be 10 feet long than 6 " short. but by all means try and have a licensed electrician do your hook up. just for safety measures.
What happen with my electrical installation ?
It looks normal, but sometimes when I turn on my washing machine, a breaker "pop" after a time and then, washing machine and refrigerator turns off, it has a 15 on it. And always is the same.
What can it be ?.
Trompa de hule
Question answered by Ray D
rubudown, Remind me NEVER to let you wire anything for me....lol....Unplug the fridge, From the sound of it your Washer and Fridge are on the same breaker and one that's to small for either, you if it's a new home Raise hell and have you electrician put BOTH on 20 amp separate circuits If he say's he won't tell him you will call the Board of Electrical contractors and file a complaint, if it's an older home you need to have a Licensed Electrician add the circuits for you or it will remain a problem.
The electric co, wires on my house are messy is there a solution?
The house was built in 1965, the wires running down the outside of the house for the electricity and the old telephone line look really messy, is there anything I can do to make it look cleaner? Does the electric company ever update the wiring?
Question answered by ColdWarrior
In 1965 most cities didn't have codes requiring outside service entrance cable to be inside conduit. So electricians just used cable rated for exterior use from your fuse or breaker box to the meter and then up the exterior wall to an anchor which the electric utility company tied the wires together.
You likely have 100 amp service coming into your house. That may have been good in 1965 but now with all the stuff we have that runs on electricity you would be better off with 150 or 200 amp service.
For that you would need a new circuit breaker box with a lot of space for future connections. Perhaps a new box for the electric meter and new heavier wiring inside conduit outside the house. The top of the conduit has a fitting called a goose neck which shields the wiring and prevents rain water from wicking down the ground cable.
Motors and other electric devices will work better with the new service as there is less voltage drop and the electrician will install new ground rods that are 8 foot long. In 65 they didn't need to be that long.
An advantage of circuit breakers vs fuses is that you can install Ground Fault Interupters. They will open the circuit preventing you from dying from electricity should you have an exposed bare wire. They are required now for kitchens, bathrooms, pools and all outside receptacles. There is another arc detector which is used for bedroom receptacles which I think is stupid but it's the code in some places.
To do these changes you should get a permit from your city or code enforcement agency. Inspectors are usually retired electrician who know the code and the right way to do things. They make sure your contractor does it right. They are there to make sure you don't suffer from a poor electrical job.
Get recommendations and multiple quotations. Specify Square D Homeline circuit breaker equipment. It is reasonable priced and good quality. Can't say that about some of the other brands.
We bought a range and it recommends a 40 amp power cord. We have a 50 amp circuit. Will a 40 A cord work?
The manual says it recommends a 40 amp cord but a 50 amp one will also work. We bought a 40 amp one and are wondering if it is worth it to replace it with a 50 (i.e. fire risk).
Question answered by sparky
Your question amazes me as to be honest I've never seen an electric Range wired with a flexible power "cord" and from what I read above, into a "receptacle" what ever that means. I'm in Australia and have been an Electrical Contractor / Electrician for 50 years and any appliance of that wattage requiring 40 amps would have to "hard wired" ( means wired in permanently through flexible conduit with double insulated wiring etc) attached securely to the range and also firmly fixed to the wall behind the range with enough spare cable etc to be able to draw out the range to enable cleaning behind it etc. and connected via an isolating switch adjacent to the range then directly wired back to 40 -- 50 amp Circuit breaker, fuse etc at the main Switch board. The rating of 40 amps required would have to split over 2 phases (440VAC between the 2 or 240VAC between each phase to neutral) with a neutral and not just a single active phase and a neutral (240VAC) also with the earth conductor coming directly from the main board above mentioned.