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Electrical Heating Equipment & Systems
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CROSS ELECTRICAL (NOTTINGHAM) LTD
Phone: 01159-375-121
NOTTINGHAM, NOTTINGHAMSHIRE
Specializes in the design, manufacture, supply and installation of electrical trace heating systems incorporating a thermal insulation division.
www.cross-electrical.co.ukSTIEBEL ELTRON LTD
Phone: 01604-766-421
NORTHAMPTON, NORTHAMPTONSHIRE
STIEBEL ELTRON is one of the leading manufacturers of domestic and system technology, since 1924 it has been developing and manufacturing products ...
www.stiebel-eltron.co.ukNEWELCO
Phone: 01633-263-021
NEWPORT, GWENT
Leading Manufacturers of Melting, Thermal Processing & Production Systems for the Metals and Materials Industry Worldwide. ...
www.newelco.co.ukE S H TRACE HEATING LTD
Phone: 01952-604-033
TELFORD, SHROPSHIRE
If you feel you have a specific design requirement or would like any advice on ... heating requirements, then please do not hesitate to contact our...
www.eshltd.comCHATSWORTH HEATING PRODUCTS LTD
Phone: 01189-401-003
HENLEY-ON-THAMES, OXFORDSHIRE
Chatsworth Heating supply electric and central heating equipment to the trade, housebuilder and developer markets. Chatsworth heating offer a large...
www.chatsworth-heating.co.ukCOMMERCIAL ELECTRIC HEAT LTD
Phone: 01937-844-994
WETHERBY, WEST YORKSHIRE
Commercial Electric Heat - Manufacturers and suppliers of Electric Space Heating equipment - Electric heaters with a difference
www.cehltd.co.ukOXFORD HARDWARE LTD
Phone: 01295-780-078
BANBURY, OXFORDSHIRE
Commercial Catering and Refrigeration Hardware Specialists UK based company. Trade only.
www.oxfordhardware.co.ukELEMENTATION LTD
Phone: 01782-522-555
STOKE-ON-TRENT, STAFFORDSHIRE
Elementation Ltd, major manufacturer of resistance elements & associated products. Based in Brindley Ford, Stoke on Trent, Staffordshire.U.K
www.elementation.co.ukHEATRAE SADIA
Phone: 01603-420-100
NORWICH, NORFOLK
We are the hot water experts and are dedicated to ensuring that people can enjoy ... their home or business without giving a second thought to the ...
www.heatraesadia.comHEAT TRACE LTD
Phone: 01614-308-333
STOCKPORT, CHESHIRE
Sometimes referred to as maximum exposure temperature or design temperature ... This is ensured by limiting the pipe or workpiece temperature to a ...
www.heat-trace.comLocal Electrical Heating Equipment & Systems
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What type of receiver/amplifier do I need to supply and power a multi-room (hard-wired) audio system?
We are building a house and having the builder install a hard-wired multi room audio system. This includes two flush mount speakers in four rooms with independent volumes controls for each room. Altogether 8 speakers on this "system". Does this mean "8-channel" for a receiver? Also, we may have them wired to our media room - could we have one receiver that could handle the whole house audio AND a 5.1 surround system for the media room separately? Please let me know what type of receiver I need and if an additional amp would be necessary. Thanks!
billy
Question answered by Kevin L
I would first make sure they have a audio video guy pre-wire this system for you as it takes someone who installs audio video system to know how to wire speakers properly. You want each pair of speakers in each room wired first to a volume control location in each room, typically next to the light switch, making sure it does not run anywhere close to AC otherwise you will get noises or buzzing through the speakers. It should then be "home run" back to a central location where you want all the equipment to be hooked up to all the speakers. I would also recommend they run a cat 5 cable from the volume control location with the home run speaker cables so in case you want to have a more advanced control system it can be done, Keypad etc. You want to pick a equipment location that has easy access to add or change software easily. This location will need adequate AC power and good ventilation to dissipate the heat from the equipment. When running power to this location you will want to run at least 2 15amp dedicated lines, (pulled from one side of the electrical panel to assure proper phase) Make sure you have a way to pull the heat out and away from this location, you will need data, and cable or satelite. You will also need video cables pulled from this location to any TV's as well as a cat 5 cable to control the system remotely. So there is allot to think about and needs to be run properly otherwise you limit yourself the amount of control, access, and ease of use of the system. As for system to power it, it depends on how much control of the system you want. If you don't mind playing the same source in each room and not to have control of what sources you want to listen to in each room, or change tracks etc. then yes just speakers home run and volume controls to control volume in each room that is all that is needed. If you want to control more of the what you want to listen to in each room or certain rooms then you will need a whole home audio system. One thing for certain is you will want a multichannel amplifier with enough channels of amplification to power each speaker. This will assure enough power to each speaker, will sound better and assure no problems down the road. I would not recommend a receiver and speaker selector box with impedance matching network to power all those speakers, it puts a big demand on a receiver and certainly lower quality receivers will end up going up in smoke. You might want to consult a audio video expert, from your local independent high end audio video store as they specialize in custom installations, proper pre-wire with good quality wire, that is fire rated to code, and with future expansion so your not limited to do what ever you choose to do. Kevin 40 years high end audio video specialist2003 Avalanche has a loss of power when you let off on the accelerator causing the lights to dim. Heater slows?
The amp gauge drops to 11. I have replaced alt and battery.
Mike
Question answered by DieselDude
Ok, here's where you start. Most likely your battery and alternator is good. Is the red battery light on? If not, most likely your alternator and charging system is good. As a technician at a GM dealership, I can tell you that these vehicles have a history of instrument panel clusters going bad. The gauges can act up and display false information, and the voltage gauge is no exception. First, get a volt meter, $25 at an auto parts store, and connect the red lead to the positive terminal on the battery. Connect the black lead to the negative terminal on the battery. Turn on the volt meter and make sure it is set to the 12 volt setting. You should see about 12.3 volts when the engine is off and key is removed. Start the engine and observe the voltage reading on the voltage meter. You should see at least 12.6 volts, depending on what electrical accessories you have on, such as the rear defroster, heated seats, headlights, etc. While observing the reading on the volt meter, increase the engine speed to 2000 RPM. The voltage reading should increase to 14 volts or more, but no more than 16 volts. If it does, your alternator is working properly, and there are no charging problems with your vehicle. Keep in mind that it is normal for the lights to go slightly dim when you let off the accelerator, as well as the heater blower to slow a little. This is because the alternator speed is related to the engine speed. The faster the engine runs, the faster the alternator spins, and the more electricity it generates. When the engine idles, the alternator does not generate as much electricity, causing the lights to dim slightly and the heater blower motor to slow down a bit. This is normal. Back to your gauge reading at 11 volts though, if your volt meter reads higher than your volt gauge on your dash, the problem is with your IPC (Instrument Panel Cluster). These aren't cheap, they are about $300-400, and another $150 or so to install. They also must be programmed, and only a GM dealer or a shop with access to GM's programming website and the proper equipment can program an IPC for it to work properly. If it were my vehicle, I wouldn't worry about it unless your want the gauge to display properly. If the alternator does go bad or you have any other charging problem, the red battery light will come on and warn you if you have a charging problem. Hope this helps.Wiring outlets use a junction box or use the outlet as a junction box?
I am putting 3 to 4 outlets on a circuit except for my appliances. Which is the proper way to wire 3 to 4 outlets? Have the feed wire go into a junction box then feed 3 to 4 outlets. Or Feed the first outlets then go to the next etc.? I can do either one probably using the junction box would be easiest due to not having to pull 2 wires thru the walls but that can be done as well.
steady
Question answered by Electrical Inspector
Use whatever method works best in your situation; just be aware of the following: If you are installing Type NM Cable ("Romex"), you will have to be careful not to overfill the boxes, no matter what method you use. It is easier to overfill boxes when installing any type of cable assembly than when using a raceway (conduit) system, because you cannot pull one continuous wire through a box. Each box requires several splices; and if you install plastic boxes, you must be able to readily identify the box volume - they are not considered "standard" sizes, and therefore you cannot find their volumes in the NEC. The easiest method is to "daisy-chain" the receptacles from one box to the next. Use "pig-tails" to attach the devices to the circuit & equipment grounding conductors. That way, you will be able to remove any device latter on, without interrupting the power supply to the other receptacles. Since you mention appliances, it sounds like you are wiring a kitchen or laundry room. Both are required to use #12 AWG conductors with 20 Amp overcurrent protection. (Wall receptacle in a kitchen that are not part of either of the 2 required "small appliance circuits" serving counter spaces may be #14 AWG with 15 Amp overcurrent protection.) Each #12 conductor has an assigned volume of 2.25 cubic inches; a standard, steel, 1900 box (4x4x1-1/2") has an allowable fill of 21 cubic inches. To that amount, you may add whatever volume is CLEARLY MARKED on the device ring (mud-ring). If no volume is marked, or if it is not clear, no additional volume can be added to that box. Any conductor beginning and ending in the same box (pig-tails) is not counted. If the box has a built-in clamping device to secure the cable assembly, that must be counted as ONE of the largest size conductors in that box. Each strap or yoke mounted device must be counted as TWO of the conductors serving that device. {If you have a receptacle for a 20 Amp circuit, and a switch for a 15 Amp circuit, you would have to count 2 #12 AWG conductors (2 x 2.25 = 4.5 Cubic Inches) and TWO #14 AWG conductors (2 x2 = 4.0 Cubic Inches) for those two devices. Only ONE #12 AWG equipment Grounding Conductor would be counted, and only one #12 AWG conductor would be counted for the integral clamp. If you had two 14-2 cables (with ground) for a light, and two 12-2 (with ground) cables serving the receptacles in a "daisy-chain" set up; you would have a total volume count of 12 cubic inches for the #14s, and a total volume of 18 cubic inches for the #12s. The total fill volume for that box will be 30 cubic inches. It doesn’t sound like you have put all that many conductors into that box, but they add up quickly. Overfilled boxes lead to over-heated conductor insulation; which in turn causes the insulation to breakdown, and eventually fail. After that, comes the smoke and flames. This is the reason for such a long answer to what, on the surface is, a simple question. You can wire your receptacles in whatever method you like, just be aware of “box-fill”. If you use a junction box to pull all of your conductors from, you must be aware of the same “fill” issues; you must also keep the box accessible (don’t burry it under the drywall). Depending on what edition of the National Electrical Code has been adopted by the governing body where you live, this information may be found under different Article numbers in the Code book, but it will always be in Chapter 3.Improving energy efficiency on a refrigerator?
Hi all, got a project in college to find a way of incresing energy efficiency on a refrigerator. The dimensions and U values of the walls were given to us, along with the ambient temperature, inside temp, refrigerant used, power supplied, etc. I've already found the coefficient of performance (COP) but am stuck at what to suggest to do next to bring energy usage to a minimum? By changing the evaporator or condenser will this improve the system? If so how? Sorry, I'm a little lost!
Mark J
Question answered by N a e
I suggest proposing an oil additive. It increases the efficiency in the condenser and evaporator coils, thereby increasing heat transfer and thermal transfer respectively. These are some advantages: 1. Increases Heat Transfer in the Condenser (Up to 25%) 2. Increases Thermal Transfer in the Evaporator (Up to 25%) 3. Decreases Compressor Amp Draw 1 4. Energy Consumption – KWh reduction (4 to 10%) 5. Increases Lubricity • Lowers Operating Oil Temperature 7% to 10% • Extends Life of Equipment • Reduces Ongoing Maintenance 5. Decreases Peak Demand Electrical (KW Demand) • Increased Lubricity 6. Provides Corrosion and Oxidation Protection • Extends Life of Equipment Check this link for one of the products i know about www.frigi-tech.com Moreover, i dont know if it is possible to make some end use modifications. for example set temperature to higher values (5 C), providing space for outdoor air circulation, or enhance the air infiltration prevention, or maybe increase the thickness of the insulation..I am adding an addition which requires moving my service (200amp) What do I have to do existing panel (30')?
new addition will be a garage and workroom. existing panel will end up to be about 30' feet away. Someone suggested a 200 amp panel with a pass through to feed existing panel. In effect it would become a sub panel
pat
Question answered by Electrical Inspector
Does the addition require moving the service entrance or the meter? Some jurisdictions have amended the NEC to put limits on how long the Service Entrance Conductors can be. This is because the NEC states that a Main Disconnect inside of a dwelling must be located as near to the point of entry as possible, without defining how far that is. Check with your local Inspector to see what the rules are. If the Main Disconnect is already out by the meter, you already have a sub-panel (actually, it is a "feeder panel"). Any feeder panels should always have the bonding jumper removed. If the panel assembly comes with the bonding jumper loose in the box, throw it away! Do not take the chance that someone will install it by mistake. Leaving the jumper in will create parallel ground paths, allowing a fault current to “loop” endlessly around without tripping the overcurrent protection. This will create electrocution hazards, as well as heating the conductors and/or raceways to the point of starting a fire. If you can leave the existing load center in place, try to buy the identical enclosure, without the panel installed. Install the new enclosure, remove the panel from the existing load center and install it in the new cabinet or enclosure. Use the existing cabinet as a pull-point or junction box (you must be sure to keep the door from being opened, ask your Inspector if he will allow you to use pop-rivets or some other method of permanently locking the door shut). You will have to install new Grounding Electrode Conductors, unless you have the ability to splice them by exothermic welding, or irreversible crimp-on connectors. GECs are required to be continuous. You have to be careful not to over-fill any raceways, if you have a raceway system installed. See the Tables in Chapter 9 of the NEC [and Table 310.15 (B) (2) (a) for derating factors]. THIS IS A JOB BEST LEFT TO A QUALIFIED, LICENSED ELECTRICAL CONTRACTOR. If you do it yourself, take your time, be very careful, and be sure that you get permission from your local electrical utility. Most will not allow untrained, unqualified persons to pull a meter; which you must do in order to de-energize the Service Entrance Conductors. Pulling a meter from a system of more than 60 Amps can be fatal, if you cause an arc-flash event to occur. (It’s fatal at 60 Amps, too, just not as likely.) Arcs can exceed 35,000° F, and can travel infinite distances. Never stand directly in front of any electrical equipment you are about to energize or de-energize. Remove watches, wedding rings, or any other metallic jewelry. NEVER attempt to pull a meter in the rain, snow, in high humidity, or on damp surfaces if you are not qualified; and not wearing the appropriate PPE.How Many Speakers/Woofers Per Amplifiar Possible In A Car?
All i know is that amplifairs are one of the main control of the volume in speakers and woofers, but is there a limit to how many speakers and woofers can be connected or added onto the amplifiar? or can you buy extra cables and and such for your amp to control more? if so, do people buy 2 or 3 amps just so that they would have more speakers and woofers in their car and is that common these days?
james k
Question answered by vindiesel2@verizon.net
technically there is no limit but there will be in terms of power......a 1000 rms watt amp will best push 2 500 watt rms subs....or 4 250 rms subs....or even a single 1000 watt rms sub.........lets say you get an amp capable of pushing 2000 watts rms and you put 4 500 watt rms subs on it.....that would be some serious power and if the equipment is name brand.....some serious sound quality and very loud volume to back it up....if you ask me the only limitations will be 1. available wattage power 2. money to pay for all that(most likely including a battery,alternator and electrical system upgrade there are amps available that are capable of putting out 7500 to 15000 watts RMS but even then those are extremely expensive so it may be smarter to get a couple of 1000 watt amps.......the best you can do is to match rms output of the amp to the rms handling limit of the subs...an underpowered sub does not sound the way it should and an overpowered one will be destroyed in extreme heat(very easy to do) and finally be sure to pay attention to wiring diagrams in accordance with the the number of subwoofers/speakers, their individual impedances and their final impedence load once the circuit is completed to the ampHow i can calculate intiail power factor if i know total power(kw)&voltage(kv)?
ocean heart
Question answered by alpha b
watts = volts x amperes x power factor [single phase] watts =sqrt[3] x volts x amperes x power factor[3 phase circuit] *Power factor is the ratio of true power or watts to apparent power or volt amps. They are identical only when current and voltage are in phase than the power factor is 1.0. The power in an ac circuit is very seldom equal to the direct product of the volts and amperes. In order to find the power of a single phase ac circuit the product of volts and amperes must be multiplied by the power factor. Ampmeters and voltmeters indicate the effective value of amps and volts. True power or watts can be measured with a wattmeter. If the true power is 1870 watts and the volt amp reading is 2200. Than the power factor is 0.85 or 85 percent. True power divided by apparent power. The power factor is expressed in decimal or percentage. Thus power factors of 0.8 are the same as 80 percent. Low power factor is usually associated with motors and transformers. An incandescent bulb would have a power factor of close to 1.0. A one hp motor about 0.80. With low power factor loads, the current flowing through electrical system components is higher than necessary to do the required work. This results in excess heating, which can damage or shorten the life of equipment, A low power factor can also cause low-voltage conditions, resulting in dimming of lights and sluggish motor operation. Low power factor is usually not that much of a problem in residential homes. It does however become a problem in industry where multiple large motors are used. Power Factor Correction Capacitors are normally used to try to correct this problem.Need to add an electrical meter?
I have an office space a single level and I want to divide it into 2 separate units and I want to monitor the use of electricity to each side. What would be the best way to go about that?
Rc51
Question answered by
You have 2 choices. 1. Install a separate service, meter and load center for each unit. 2. Install a sub-panel from the existing main panel to serve the other units entirely, they make metering equipment/system(s) you can install with the sub-panels to meter/monitor the electricity yourself. This is most likely the least expensive method. This method would also require you have an existing service & load center to handle any extra loads added too. If you add too much (kitchens, A/C, heating, etc.) then you may need to upgrade your existing service also. A typical 200 amp service will normally be plenty for most additions. An electrician will be able to help you with that question more.98 intrepid rear defrost problem please any techs that have some experience with this car!!?
i need to know if the rear defrost is controled by a module if so witch one ?? thanks
lem604
Question answered by polkan47
INTRODUCTION For proper operation of the Rear Window Defogger system refer to the Owner's Manual. Vehicles equipped with an electrically heated rear window defogger also have a 90 amp generator. The system consists of a rear glass with two vertical bus bars and a series of electrically connected grid lines fired on the inside surface. The Body Control Module (BCM) operates a relay located in the trunk area on all models. Vehicles with Rear Window Antenna refer to Accessories and Optional Equipment/Radio Stereo and Compact Disc/Radio/Stereo/Audio Systems. Circuit protection is provided by a fusible link, located in the charging circuit, for the heated grid circuit and by a fuse for the relay control circuit. When the rear window defogger relay is ON, current is directed to the rear defogger grid lines. The heated grid lines heat the rear glass to clear the surface of fog or frost. CAUTION: Grid lines can be damaged or scraped oft with sharp instruments, care should be taken in cleaning glass or removing foreign materials, decals or stickers. Normal glass cleaning solvents or hot water used with rags or toweling is recommended. Rear Window Defogger Control System The Rear Window Defogger electrical system involves the operation of the Heater-A/C or ATC Control Head, the Body Control Module (BCM), and the rear Window Defogger Relay and wiring. The passenger can push the Rear Widow Defogger button on the Heater-A/C or ATC Control to defog the rear glass. The system will only operate when the ignition switch is in the run position. Once the Rear Widow Defogger button is pushed. the button indicator will light and the system will operate for a period of time and then automatically' turn off. Refer to the owner's manual for operation of the A/C-Heater or ATC control. The A/C-Heater or the ATC control sends a signal to the BCM, which indicates to the BCM that the operator wants the rear window grid to heat. Refer to the A/C-Heater or ATC Control for details on how these modules interact. An output wire from the BCM connects to the coil of the rear window defogger relay. The other side of the coil is connected to a fuse. The BCM turns on the relay by connecting the output line of the BCM to vehicle ground. The relay contacts will then close supplying vehicle power to the rear window defogger grid.is the Divinci dv-608 good speakers or not ive heard good and bad things need help?
looking to buy system on ebay. need to know if they are a legit or not
mike83_6000
Question answered by bkbarile
this is what I found on it, do not buy! DiVinci DV-606, Towers, suround system Ripoff Ontario California Company DiVinci Address: 1950 South Grove Ave. 201 Ontario California 91761 U.S.A. Phone Number: 909-923-4518 Fax: Last week I was approached by a white pickup truck and two man, mid-to-late twenties offering me a high end surround sound system that they had an extra in the shipment. I was presented a bill of shipment and a cost of the system, MRSP $ 3,650.00 US. I was asked to through them any offer. Just out of crusty I offered $ 350 CND. The other person got involved and started arguing the quality and cost of the system. I advised I do not need it and I was about to walk away. Then they agreed to take $ 350. I brought the system home. I try to connect it. After I energize a system smoke start coming out of the main unit. I am an electrical engineer and I opened the unit to see what is going on. The transformer was fry. I start investigating where I could by a replacement transformer. I noticed that a fry unit did not have a proper labeling, no manufacturer name, no VA rating. It cough my attention that a transformer was rated for 50 Hz, while all Canada and USA is 60Hz. This might cause the transformer to go into a saturation and burn out. I contacted 909-923-4518 and I was very much surprised that no help was offered. People was very unprofessional and something start ringing a bell. No serious manufacturer will ever refuse help on technical issues. The prices of other equipment listed on the web was high, therefore, I should be dealing with a reputable Co. I start browsing internet about divinci@divincisound.com & PRECISION TRANSDUCER SYSTEMS INC. and voila. Rip-Off after rip-off. I lost $350 and I do not regret the lesson. It could be more And you folks out here try to learn from other people mistakes! PLS do not get caught in a such deal. Item description: DV-608 1800 Watts Total System Power Built-in 5.1 Receiver/Pre-Amp/Processor/Tuner *300 Watts/Channele/8 Ohms* 12" 550W High-Current Low-Mass Subwoofer Satellite/Center (250 Watts x 5 =1250W) High-Energy lynxis precision Crossover Digital Hi-Fi Audio/Video In/Outputs Silver and Platinum Heat Resistant Wiring Direct Laser Tech. Full Function Remote Gold Capped High-End A/V Cables and Wiring 14.2"(H) X 44.3"(W) X 13.4" ( D ) 71.2 Lbs ( Weight ) Vlado oakville, Ontario Canada
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