It's almost like choosing a family doctor. You want one who is licensed, bonded, insured. These features should automatically separate good from bad repair persons, but not always. Good character can be hard to spot at first glance. When you choose your repair person, choose one who specializes within the scope of your particular need. For instance...you may need electrical fixed, don't choose a cheap labor/repair person who also fixes fences, walks your dog, and paints a little on the side. Search the Better Business Bureau for information on the licensed business you are interested in. Word of mouth does work best, but even then you can find the "Bad Apple" in the midst of a good referral. I change Doctors when I'm not satisfied with their performance, do the same if you locate that Bad Apple repair person. Some bad repair persons are literally "Banking" on your ignorance, so unless you really know what you need and how it should be done, don't waste too much time on picking his or her brain. It's a learning experience that is not always so easy or cheap.

What is the difference between life and electricity?

There may be many unseen life forms living around us. We don't see or hear many things. But some animals do. For example an elephant can hear and send a messages at a frequency which we can't hear. Similarly dogs can smell many things we are unable to smell. Dogs and some other animals can see certain things which we can't see. Some animals and birds can even see future. This universe is very very strange and we can't understand it fully. Life may exist in many forms and it may not need a body like ours for life to survive. Under certain circumstances life can be there without a body. There are light beings, air beings, water beings and life can exist in Light, Air or Water. As you know 80% of our body is made of water. So we are Water Based Beings. Similarly there can be light based bodies or air based bodies. Also our world is made of carbon. But there are worlds which are made of other substances. Life is just an energy like electricity. All electrical appliances work when electricity is there. The moment electricity is discontinued the electrical device stops functioning. Sometimes there is electricity but a device can't work because it is defective. As soon as it is repaired it starts working. Same thing for life. All bodies function when there is life. When life flow stops coming in to the body it dies. Sometimes due to accident or a disease or old age the body becomes defective and life can't enter in to it. As soon as some of those barriers are removed life comes back in to a body. That is a reason some people get up even after they are declared dead by Doctors.

Rocky

Question answered by Eagle

Very little difference.

What's Goodwill's policy on accepting small electrical appliances?

Does Goodwill test small electrical appliances, like microwaves, to see if they are actually in working order, or do they just rely on the word of the donor?

1selkie

Question answered by eskie lover

We have a Goodwill service center here in Southern California. There the disabled test and repair goods they then sell. However, our Goodwill will no longer take certain electronics deemed by the state to be hazardous waste including microwaves, computers, and TVs. for example.

Why do repair shops fix items with incorrect parts instead of telling the customer?

I have had two different household appliances repaired in the last year and they never worked properly afterward. When I call the repair shops to complain, I am told that since my items are so old, the parts are no longer available and they fixed them with the closest parts to the original they could find. I really think that if the proper parts aren't available any longer, the customer should be told and then decide with that information whether to go ahead with a repair.

weakestlink11

Question answered by Tony

These days it's about the money. My mother-in-law bought a new washing machine three years ago. She hardly ever uses it. But recently it quit working properly, started making a big clunking noise. So when she asked me to look at it - I discovered that her machine has a self diagnostic program that can tell you what's bad. In her case it was a bad shift mode coil. That's just an electro magnet that will switch the machine from agitate to spin. I called a repair man and he said anywhere from $335 to $400 depending on how hard it is to replace. So I called the manufacturer and they told me they can sell me a whole new transmission for $135. But I told them it was only the mode shift coil. However, they don't sell those separately. My MIL decided to scrap it and get a new machine. But before she did that I said let me have a whack at it. Being that I'm an engineer I decided to remove the coil and check it out. Sure enough, the coil was dead. "But why" I wondered. So I cut the weld and opened the housing. The coil LOOKED good. There was no signs of an electrical burn out, no smell, nothing. So I checked the fusible link. Found the culprit. It was open. Fusible links are designed to "Blow" like a fuse if too much current is drawn OR if the temperature exceeds a certain level. The link the manufacturer used was good enough when considering the amount of current that would be drawn OR the amount of heat that would be generated. However they failed to engineer in the factors of heat AND current. Their design is flawed. I researched on the net and found that lots of people were having that problem. Well, since I had it open I decided to go to the local electronics store and get a new fusible link, one that would meet the requirements of both heat and current at the same time. For less than two bucks I replaced that link, reassembled the coil, reinstalled it and tested everything. It all works just fine now. AND my MIL has the peace of mind knowing that I put a fusible link in that will stand up to the job without compromising safety. From $335 to $2.00 to repair it. Did I use the "Incorrect" part? Actually, no, I used a "BETTER" part. And my MIL didn't have to buy a new machine. The main goal of any repair shop is to fix what doesn't work. By whatever means. As long as it works when it leaves the shop - you got what you wanted. Will it work for a long time like that? Only if they guarantee their work. Sometimes an old machine is better off replaced. It's less expensive in the long run. Good luck. ")

How do you fix the heating coil on a whirlpool dryer?

I have a whirlpool dryer that isnt producing heat while the drum tumbles. I have tested the coil and get 0 resistance. The thermal fuse also gives 0 resistance. what resistance should the thermastats give at room temp? I assume 0 and they do. Im lost on this one. Power goes to everything but it just wont work. Any appliance repair gurus out there know what i can try?

powerthirst2

Question answered by AIDEN

Ok I'm in the UK, but guessing that the Whirlpool dryers in the Us are similar. Big problems with Whirlpool dryers at the moment and all related to not heating problems. 1st As an Electrical Engineer your measurements mean nothing to me (we use different equipment) The most likely cause of your problem is faulty thermostats. There are 2 of them just above the heater assembly, they are wired in line and when one of them goes open circuit, there is no power to the heater. On Whirlpool Driers (Dryers) the most probable cause of no heat is 1st faulty stats (thermostats) and 2nd faulty heater assembly. My advice (because I am in the UK and US speck is different) go on to eBay Us and search for “Whirlpool Drier thermostats or Whirlpool Drier Heating elements” You will find many sellers who can tell you what to check and how. Here is something else you can try. I can't for legal reasons tell you to do this. The thermostats each have 1 wire in and 1 wire out, I as an Engineer often to check stats, pull the 2 wires of the stat and join them together, so bypassing the stat. If after joining the 2 wires together on both stats, you get heat, then the problem is surely faulty stats. So that's 2 stats, each with 1 wire in and 1 wire out. I have heard (more legal stuff) If the wires of stat 1 are pulled off and joined together and the wires of stat 2 are pulled off and joined together (don't mix the wires of stat 1 and 2 ) And the heater starts to work. Then You only need a new stat kit If the heater doesn't work with the stats bridged, then it is likely that a new heater assembly will fix the problem. I know this wont apply to the US as I am in the UK, But I met a woman this morning who paid £25 for a part about $43 and got her husband to fit it. She was shocked to learn, I would have supplied and fitted the part for £24. The moral of the story, If you know a good and genuine Engineer, it is often cheaper to get them to do the job. By Aiden Mackle of www.aidenmackle.com

What is the difference between life and electricity?

Rocky

Question answered by Eagle

Very little difference.

How do I fix my dvd home theater system? After a power failure it quit working.?

It's a RCA.....DVD Home Theater System, model RTD258. It was plugged in when the power failed and later came back on, all while I was at work......none of my other electrical appliances were affected.

Hephzibah

Question answered by Pragmatism Please

Power spikes when the electric co. turns it back on. The extra electricity, in it's effort to go to ground, will take the path of least resistance. Sounds like your surround system was your path of least resistance. If nothing happens when you press the power button, you can UNPLUG it from power, open it, and check for a burned out fuse. If the fuse is okay, you will need a repair shop.

List the three common working centres in a kitchen and describe the purpose of each?

After reading this article can you answer the above question? FOOD PREPARATION FOUNDATIONS Apply appropriate precautionary measures and emergency response associated with food preparation, including: handling equipment and hot foods safely responding appropriately to emergencies Kitchen Know How When it comes to working in the kitchen, safety is important. Working in an orderly manner can prevent accidents from happening. It is also important to understand what to do if an accident does happen. Understanding basic safety guidelines and first aid will help you deal with personal injury. Also understanding guidelines will prevent costly damage to kitchen equipment. General Safety Guidelines Move in an unhurried, orderly way. Keep the floor clear and clean at all times. If something spills on the floor, stop and wipe it up. Keep pot handles turned to the back or protected side of the cook top. Turn burners off and unplug appliances when not in use. Ensure equipment is in good working order. Never use a pot with a loose handle. Ensure electrical cords are in good repair before use. Keep kitchen cleaners and poisons clearly labelled and out of reach of children. Preventing Fires Ensure there is no paper near a cooking surface. Do not wear loose clothing; it may come in contact with a flame or burner. Never leave fat unattended while cooking with it. If oil begins to smoke, it is too hot. Keep children away while cooking with oil. Frayed or broken electrical cords should be properly repaired before use. While using small electrical appliances, first plug the electrical cord in to appliance then into the wall outlet. When finished using the appliance, unplug the cord first from the wall then from the appliance before storing it. Different types of fires require different approaches to deal with them. General advice is to turn off the heat and cut off the air supply to the fire. Keep a kitchen extinguisher nearby at all times. There are 4 types of fires that are more common in a kitchen. Paper or fabric fires – (cookbooks, tea towels) Dowse the flames with water or cover the fire with an asbestos blanket and stamp out flames. Fat, oil fires – (oil in a fry pan) Never use water!! It will spread the flames, which may ignite something else. Use baking soda, salt or a chemical extinguisher to smother the flames. Fire extinguishers should be pointed towards the base of the flames. Oven Fire – Never open the oven door!! Opening the door will allow oxygen in and the fire will instantly gain in intensity. Leave the oven door closed and turn off the element. Electrical Fire – Use a chemical extinguisher at the base of the fire. Turn off the breaker to that outlet and unplug the appliance. Preventing Burns Ensure you are using adequate heat protection when handling containers that are hot. Oven mitts should be used when putting items in or taking them out of the oven. Potholders should have adequate padding and be dry so the heat does not transfer and form steam. Using a dish towel or the end of an apron is unsafe. It may not have adequate protection and may touch a hot element and catch fire. Steam should be released from pats by tilting the lid away from your body. Drain foods from boiling water by pouring the water away from you. Ensure you are using both hands and that they are covered by potholders or oven mitts. Remove lids and plastic wrap from microwave dishes carefully so steam does not hurt your face or hands. Put the burned area under gently running cold water or immerse it in a sink of cold water. Continue until the pain is gone.

Lamya

Question answered by Mama Jazzy Geri

After reading the article I find it pertains to safety all over the kitchen but mainly the stove and how to use electrical appliances. Also the sink where you would drain hot foods. Knowing how to take care of emergencies is very important when it comes to fires. There are different types of fires and each one needs to be handled differently. The first part of the article talks about keeping the floor clean and free of spills. It's very easy to slip and fall when you are moving fast in the kitchen and your mind is on getting food cooked and served. Following these common sense suggestions would cut back on accidents in the kitchen. Being prepared in case of accidents is something we all need to be reminded of whether you are a new cook or one with more experience.

What should be involved in an electrical analysis of a home and what is the cost?

My electrician suggests an electrical analysis of my home's electricity as the home is 65 years old and still has fuses amounting to 60 amps. He pronounces the wiring as above-standard. Because his fee - $325 - is about that of a home appraisal I'd like to know more about such an analysis.

liliodine3

Question answered by Bryan H

Back when I was an electrical contractor, I would charge $125 for a home wiring inspection, so $325 does seem a little excessive. Here in Florida, it is nearly impossible to obtain homeowners insurance with a fused panel rated at under 100A. In most cases, the service must be upgraded to the current NEC minimum of 100A and utilize circuit breakers for overcurrent devices. The inspection report should include all life safety issues, fire hazard issues, and existing code violations. It should probably also include suggestions for bringing any non-code complaint issues into compliance with an estimate for those repairs. The inspection should also include all the readings from voltage, current, and other tests performed on the electrical system. In general, the report should itemize each component of the electrical system and break it down to the room or location in the dwelling. For example, the report should comment on the service equipment, service grounding, panelboard specifics, branch circuits, devices, and outlets in each room, protective devices such as gfci's and afci's, and special appliance details such as a/c and a/h units, diswasher, disposal, range, ect... Good Luck.

Why does the circuit breaker at my house keep tripping?

The circuit breaker at the main power source in the house keeps on tripping causing power supply to my electrical appliances to be cut off. it is not the main fuse because other than the power to the sockets used for the appliances works perfectly. I had a similar problem in 2009 and an electrician replaced the whole set of fuses.

hisham d

Question answered by Phil

There are two possible reasons for your main house circuit breaker to trip like this. Either...your total current draw from time to time exceeds the rating of the breaker and it is doing its job.. or, The breaker needs to be replaced. If you have a big AC unit and notice that the trips occur when the AC unit kicks in the most likely cause is the breaker is too small. Some older homes only have 50 amp breakers..most newer ones 100 amp breakers, and larger homes will have 200 amp breakers. You used the word FUSES. Circuit breakers are switches. You push to the side to turn on/off like a light switch. Fuses are round things that burn out if there is too much current and you must put in a new one. Unless you live in a very old home, you most likely have circuit breakers. If your electrician was lazy in 2009 he may have found himself with this problem. Sometimes the power company runs the feed directly from the pole into your circuit breaker box. There is no external circuit breaker for you to shut off. The electrician probably didn't replace the main breaker and just turned it off so he could do a quick change of the smaller breakers. I found this problem on an old home and had to either get the power company come out and disconnect the wire from the utility pole or work with the box in the live state. I.E. I was sticking my hands in the box with everything nice and powered up to give me a godzilla zap. If you have an external box that disconnects your feed from the utility pole this is an easy quick fix as a circuit breaker is cheap. However, likely since you are writing here and mixing terms I don't recommend you making the repair on your own. Summary...random interruptions..need new breaker and cheap fix. ..........interruption when big appliance like AC or freezer kicks in you need a bigger breaker. Note your panel may not be able to take a bigger breaker so you may need a larger breaker box if that is the case. Cheers.