what is causing my battery to drain slowly on '06 ford escape? alternator good, battery good?
I replaced battery 3 weeks ago because battery wouldn't keep a charge. The other day i went to start my car and it was slow turning over til yesterday it wouldnt turn over at all. We checked the charge on the battery and it is good. We checked the alternator and it is good. What is causing this?
Question answered by MasTec 1970
The alternator is a common failure to cause a draw on the Escape/Tribute to test:
Load test the battery first. Replace the battery or substitute a test battery and recheck the concern as needed.
If the battery tests OK, use an inductive low amp clamp, or tee an ammeter in line between the negative battery cable and the battery post. It is normal to read a 200 to 400 milliamp draw just after shutting off the key. After 45 minutes, the draw should drop below 80 milliamps.
If the draw remains high, first unplug the alternator, if the draw is gone, suspect the alternator.
If the draw is still present, begin unplugging one fuse at a time from the UNDERHOOD fuse box until the draw is gone. Do not put any of the fuses back in until the test is complete. Putting any fuses back in before the test is complete will "wake up" the modules and the test will have to be performed again. Once the problem circuit is identified, address the items on the circuit.
NOTE: Just because the alternator passed a "Bench test" does not mean it will not cause a draw!
ADDED: At the knuckle head "CHUCKLES": Do you realize what you are telling this person to do could cost him THOUSANDS of dollars by BURNING UP any amount of the 27 solid state computer modules that are on this vehicle! You have NO place on (automotive maintenance and repairs), you need to go answer questions over in the TOYS section where you can't damage anything!
backfiring and not getting any boost?
Hi i own a 1993 mazda rx7 fd3s, twin turbo, just recently i took it for a spin and at the time was running great but come the end of my little test drive i tried to boost it and all it did was backfire and i got no boost... i've checked the vacuum lines and other areas and they're all okay. could it be because of having no main fuse? recently i noticed the 120 amp main fuse was blown but it still ran with the exception of the warning lights etc etc.
Question answered by Wall B
man thats rare,120amp blown,what caused it is top of the list.Anything done lately-jumpstart with the cables wrong?An impact or accident that pinched/shorted a wire(of a larger size or the wire at the back of the alternator rubbed or melted against something on it's path to where it enters underhood fuse relay box then to the battery. Check any added on Aftermarket amplifier/radio Big power supply wire shorting it between where it connects at battery and the inline fuse built onto this added power source(its fuse needs to be as close to the battery as possible because if it gets shorted before its inline fuse it wont pop or blow the safety fuse,assumming if one is there for amp,tuner,etc.added on for a supply power.And yes this blown 120amp fuse could be causing this,and once replaced(do not use foil or paperclip;it will burn your car to the ground)you may need to clear the code light it set(check engine/service maintenance) If unhooking the negative at the battery fails to clear it,remove the computers fuse in the same box for a minute then replace it* BUT THE KEY / IGNITION BETTER BE OFF*!!!to prevent it from erasing ;blanking out its dealer only installed program for it to run the engine.Auto Zone.com repair instructions,troubleshooting is free for you to use to guide any repairs on any vehicle entered!Good Luck my friend,wallace :).
Can a 12 volt 10 amp Charger and a Nascar mobile power pack booster wreck a vehicle?
My Sister has a 2006 Toyota Tundra V6. Theirs a problems with the battery or altenator. Anyway I wanted to move it and I was impatient. I had the 12 volt 10 amp slow charger on it and I quickly hooked up the nascar mobile power pack charger on it but it was dead anyway but somehow it took power from the slow charger and it was enough to get it started. I was quick about it. Anyway a couple lights show up on the dash, one is a Maintenance Service repair light and the other one is a warning light. What I'm worried about is, can this damage the computers, or something, is it possible I could have or is that just telling me the batterys bad or altenator. Please let me know, so I don't have to worry about any damage. Anyone.
Ok, I didn't turn the ignition on until I had them both hooked up quickly, then once the truck started, I quickly unhooked the booster first followed by the charger. Is that what you mean? Should everything be ok and like you say it might just be a bad battery or alternator maybe?
Question answered by Saxster
Did you connect the cables of the booster with the ignition in the ON position? It IS possible you could damage the electronics this way. However if the truck battery was dead, you could just have a charging system problem showing up...
I am looking for a fun, reliable, and safe car that is used (2004 and up) for under $15,000.?
I have looked online at the Jaguar X-type and Volvo S40. The cost of maintaining the car is also a factor. I had a 2003 Mercedes E320 and it cost about $2,000 a year for maintenance and repairs. I don't want any car that is will cost a few thousand a year to maintain, which is making me think twice about considering Jaguar or Volvo. I am a tall person (6'8) so that should also be considered.
Question answered by mdcbert
Well, theres your Problem! anything 1996 and newwer has the dreaded OBD-II computer system and costs a fortune everytime the "Check engine" light comes on.
I'm Jewish, which means I dont like to lay out any cash for anything. SOI drive a 1981 Diesel Mercedes. read why here...
1950`s and `60`s Diesel Benzes Hold their value regardless of their mileage and you still get the free roadside assistance from Mercedes, and still get 30mpg in town. Those are fun because everyone stops to admire and compliment you on the car.