Central Heating - Installation & Servicing
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DOUG MISSON
We cover an area of 50 miles radius and have been in business since 1968. ... We provide a complete range of products and services to ensure that t...
www.dougmisson.co.ukT & D BARRS PLUMBING & HEATING LTD
Hertfordshire based domestic and commercial plumbing services for London and the home counties.
www.tdbarrs.co.ukLocal Central Heating - Installation & Servicing
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what size copper wire do i need for 200 amp residential service?
is it ok to use 1/o copper wire for 200 amp service i am installing central heat and air? the electrical engineer for the electric company said that it would be ok but i keep hearing different from other people.
jpruitt1020
Question answered by Irv S
The utility 'owns' that incoming wire up to your meter installation. NEC rules apply after that. Table 310.15 of the NEC applies to 'cable in conduit', and does require 2/0 Cu. or 4/0 Al. The 1/0 from your Utility is probably 'cable in free air', and different rules apply. If you're supplying the mast, weather-head, and cable down to the meter pan, I'd suggest going with the larger size for that run.Adding Heat Pump?
I have central air at my house and I wanted to add a heat pump for the winter to keep the house warm because of the price of oil is costly. I call a company they are telling me I need to increase my my wattage from 100 to 200 amp and I need to upgrage the electric outlet. They are chargin me $7000 do the the job. I think thats too much and I need help on how do I go about getting that job done. Any one any advice?
jeanlouis76@gmail.com
Question answered by Robert A
if you have 100 amp service (common in older homes), you will need to upgrade to 200 amp service. you will need a licensed electrician for that. as far as adding a heat pump, your duct work needs to be insulated if it isn't. the other option is to replace your ductwork, which can be costly also. the size of your home will determine what size heat pump you need. which also affects the price. i got an estimate for a 2 1/2 ton two weeks ago. only the heat pump and installation was $3200. if this guy or company is doing all of the work, ductwork, electric and heat pump, it sounds like a fair price. if the price reflects only the heat pump and installation, it's over priced. good luck.Installing Central Air/Heat?
We're looking at buying a house and we like this house that's out in a small town- it's 1309 sq feet and has a full basement so installation should be fairly easy. About how much would it cost to put in the sysytem and duct work? The house is only $75,000 and the taxes haha well they're only $436 a year so it would probably be worth it- I'm just wanting to know so we could talk about getting rid of the base board heat and the window units.
Michelle
Question answered by Tedruski
If you decide on electric heat pump you need to think about these things. #1. You may need to upgrade your electric service panel. You will need 200 amp service - you now probably have 100 amp panel. #2. Heat pumps (furnace for aux heat) Heat pump puts out heat and cool, furnace is for backup when temps get below freezing. You still have all the ductwork just as a gas furnace would have. If you decide on gas consider these things. #1. Obviously if you currently have no gas service into house, you would need main gas line tapped into and pipe ran up to new meter on house. Gas company provides this usually. If you have gas ( gas stove/water heater/etc. you will find a gas meter somewhere around outside of house. All you then need is gas line ran to new furnace location and wire to condensing unit outside + new gas furnace/coil ductwork. * My guess is to allow $5,550 - $7,000 for heat pump and $4500-$6,000 for gas furnace/ac system. This is for a simple installation. * Upgrade electrical service can be $800 - $1,000 depending on what is needed. You may need this for the heat pump system.Alt winter heat question. 85 year old Dad dependent on electricity, but when that goes out?
Southern Ohio. Winter temps seldom go below +20 but in theory -10 is possible. And with Al Gore running lose, you never know.... If it was my house I know lots of ways to solve the problem. But Dad been there for 35 years (Southern Ohio suburbs) and sees no reason to worry about if the power goes out for very long, because it never did before, for very long. "Normalcy Bias" Situation: Nice neighborhood, brick house, unused fireplace with plywood blocking it and it hasn't been inspected in years. Although central (natural gas) heater and gas water heater in basement are vented up through the chimney, so we may safely assume the chimney has nothing living in it and at least it is not blocked. But of course fireplaces suck for heating a 2 story house, most of the heat goes up the chimney. And a fireplace on ground floor will not prevent pipes from freezing, which is my main concern. I can keep Dad warm, but if the pipes freeze, I'd have to move him out. Being resistant to "change", he is unwilling to allow installation of VENTED propane alternate system (which wouldn't actually cost that much, he could afford it). Can't use portable propane heaters due to carbon monoxide danger. Systems must be vented and that means professional installation through external brick wall, and of course moving furniture around to create bare (non-rug) floor space for such things. He doesn't think such things are necessary, will trust to luck. So I've been racking my brain thinking what could be done with existing infrastructure. So far the only thing I can think of is, there is a natural gas water heater in basement and he already has lots of garden hoses. Lots. New unused on garage shelves plus those in service. I could probably water a lawn a block away if I salvaged all those from the yard barn ;-). If the electricity goes off, it is highly probable that the tap water and natural gas service will remain on. So I was thinking, in an emergency, I could run some hoses from the water heater in basement, around in there to keep the pipes warm (and since heat rises, it may help the first floor too, no insulation between...) and then run a hose up the basement steps and around the first floor to keep the place kind of habitable. Run the faucets a little (which he does every winter at night) so nothing freezes up. But if I ran garden hoses to circulate warm water around the house, the end of the hose kind of has to go back into the T(emperature)/P(ressure) valve on the side of the water heater to maintain water pressure in a closed loop. Easy enough to do. And with the water heater running full blast, and all that hose, surely a closed loop would work, even with the TP valve compromised by being left open. Right? Suggestions? He has enough firewood to last about 3 days (nights) assuming the fireplace still works and I could persuade him to encamp before it, move some furniture, create a mini environment in front of it, close off the rest of the house. But that wouldn't prevent the pipes from freezing. The guy is welded to the pristine upper middle class suburbia ("I want grass not vegetables") reality. Won't go for a wood stove. Maybe I can persuade him to have fireplace inspected. But he never uses the living room, it is a shrine to the 70s, with a barricade to keep the dog out of it. @ceece: he's 85. Doesn't need much as long as status quo remains. But if the sheit hits the fan, he's going to need some help. Eventually, one of us 'kids' is going to have to take charge. And I am on the scene, the eldest son and trained in survivalist wackoism. Unfortunately, I need to not rock his boat too much, until it becomes necessary. Gotta leave the guy some dignity so long as he can handle it.
who WAS #1?
Question answered by tott1
actually your simplest answer is a small generator that can be used for back up power. even the smallest ones that are used for camping will run the fan and thermostat for the naural gas central heating unit. when the central heat and air unit is in heat mode with a natural gas furnance it does not use the 220 volt supply for the ac compressor only a 110 vot 10 or 15 amp supply for the fan and thermostat switch and that can be powered by a small portable generator and still have enough left for a couple of lights.
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